View Full Version : My first pile of sawdust
joey81
02-06-2011, 09:43 PM
Yay! I finally made my first pile of sawdust!
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/IMG0226/1179124039_btypp-M.jpg
Slowly moving away from just being a tool collector. :p
My first project is a multi-purpose sawhorse/bench/stool based on this (http://www.askthebuilder.com/232_A_Saw_Horse_Substitute_-_Tim_s_Carpenter_s_Bench.shtml).
violaine
02-06-2011, 09:51 PM
anu ba pwede natin gawin jan bro?
pang start ng fire sa charcoal grill!
wag mu itapon...memorable yan!
excited na kami sa project mo!
but take your time.
timber715
02-06-2011, 10:00 PM
My first project is a multi-purpose sawhorse/bench/stool based on this...
akala ko based sa sawdust yung design mo :D
joey81
02-06-2011, 10:05 PM
Question mga master about jigsaw usage. When I start the cut, tama naman yung kain ng blade:
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/IMG0223/1179123870_eNjgL-M.jpg
Pero as I progress, tumatagilid siya:
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/IMG0222/1179123868_TK8Vu-M.jpg
This is the result. Skwalado yung start:
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/IMG0225/1179124035_VabFA-M.jpg
Pero tagilid na yung kabilang dulo:
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/IMG0224/1179123874_qU7hT-M.jpg
BTW, this is a 36-inch cut using a Makita jigsaw with T234X Progressor blade. Speed: 6, orbit setting 1.
May kinalaman ba 'to sa speed ng pag-feed ko? Orbit? Or jigsaw speed itself?
timber715
02-06-2011, 10:19 PM
let the blade do the cutting Joey. do not push the jigsaw for the cut to speed up.
beebeenator
02-06-2011, 10:40 PM
for straight cutting i get better result at maximum orbit setting (3 sa jigsaw ko)
i do not know if i am correct but i did read somewhere that just like bandsaw blades, jigsaw blades also has "drift"
having a high orbit setting does counter act this drifting effect
timber715
02-06-2011, 11:00 PM
or you guys should try the GST 80PBE ng Bosch :D, I have one sa court and I can give you several tips there, for hardwood- you would prefer a slower speed and for soft wood you can use higher speed. for plywood you can use high speed with pendulum action for faster and straighter cut. the pendulum action on the Jigsaws actually improves the straightness of the cut...
This might helps!!
"The makita, like several Bosch jigsaws, has a selector switch to choose the type of cutting action. You have to choose the appropriate cutting action, either straight or oscillating, to accommodate the material you cut and the blade you cut with. For instance, if using a very slender blade for clean curved cuts in wood, a slight oscillating motion ( setting II or III) reduces friction on the blade.
If you choose the straight cutting action you get maximum accuracy, but drastically increase the friction because the blade is held firmly to the roller bearing. A slender blade can handle that for brief periods, (say... less than thirty seconds) in soft, thin wood with a straight cut. In hard woods or engineered wood products ( plywood, MDF etc.) the thin blade will heat up and bend.
You can reduce friction by choosing an oscillating cutting motion, or you can use a larger, sturdier blade. The "Aggressor" blades do not cut as smoothly as the "clean" blades, but they cut faster and are stronger. To cut thick wood ( 4x4 ) or a long cut in engineered material, that is the blade I use. Select number III or number II for 'type-of-cut' and use a bigger blade. See if that stops the "bucking."
Good luck!"
I thought it was only me having this problem. However I have only a cheap Black and Decker jig saw.
In the end all problems solved by getting a circular saw for this kind of long cuts.
I thought it was only me having this problem. However I have only a cheap Black and Decker jig saw.
In the end all problems solved by getting a circular saw for this kind of long cuts.
I think its more in the blade issue not on the jigsaw itself unless misalligned talaga ung guide ng jigsaw..
violaine
02-07-2011, 06:37 PM
i used to have a b&d jigsaw, then Talon (taiwan formerly KYK yata), and then finally the GSTPBE bosch (even with progressor blades or its pendulum combination) and had the same blade drift.
having a circular saw, i wouldnt trust any jigsaw for cutting whole sheet of plywood/plyboards to make a consistent 90 degree edge.
yes, its got to be the circular saw.
if you cut circles/wavy cuts using a jigsaw then by all means use the speed selector and the pendulum action if it has that feature...this minimizes the drift...whatever type of blade there is.
and of course do not push the saw...jigsaw cutting is meant to be enjoyed! hehe
and i certainly believe it isnt meant for long straight cuts...hence the name of the tool.
timber715
02-07-2011, 11:25 PM
guys like Doc V said, you should let the blade cut, do not push it... try it, its not the blade nor the tool. its the technique... but a good tool will make it a lot easier, it isn't the cause of the drift!
I just hope you guys try it first.... really...:mad:
joey81
02-08-2011, 09:32 PM
anu ba pwede natin gawin jan bro?
pang start ng fire sa charcoal grill!
wag mu itapon...memorable yan!
excited na kami sa project mo!
but take your time.
pag-takip sa uu ng aso :p
iniintay nyo project ko? bigla tuloy akong kinabahan! :eek::eek:
akala ko based sa sawdust yung design mo
Nyahaha! Oo nga, ano? :eek:
joey81
02-08-2011, 09:42 PM
Thank you for the tips, mga master.
Although I haven't tried it yet (sagabal kasi ang day job, eh), I believe moving the saw slower will solve my problem. Excited kasing gumawa ng kusot kaya ayun, nanggigigil sa pagtulak ng jigsaw.
Hindi nga ako makatulog that night, nai-imagine ko pa rin yung vibration ng jigsaw and the sound it makes when cutting the plywood. ;)
jarod
02-09-2011, 10:03 AM
Hindi nga ako makatulog that night, nai-imagine ko pa rin yung vibration ng jigsaw and the sound it makes when cutting the plywood. ;)
Ingat lang sa pagtulog at baka maglit si wifey dahil hindi pangalan nya ang tinatawag mo sa gabi kundi "hi...ta...chi....hi....ta...chi..." :D
violaine
02-09-2011, 10:43 AM
pag-takip sa uu ng aso
exactly! makes the pupu dry and relatively odorless!
:p
joey81
02-26-2011, 09:43 PM
Ok. I tried moving the jigsaw slowly, but still the blade drifts :confused:
Looks like there's more to it than just pushing slower.
Ended up using the circular saw. Maingay nga lang at mas makalat ang sawdust! :eek:
Glued-up and clamped
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/P1150084/1195356155_LZnxW-M-1.jpg
First time to shoot brads, enjoyed this part a lot.
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/P1150085/1195356610_enV4t-S.jpg
joey81
02-26-2011, 09:48 PM
And the final screw-up
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/P1150086/1195355131_2mKhk-M.jpg
I need to build a 2nd one
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/P1150087/1195358084_EjFTr-M-1.jpg
beebeenator
02-27-2011, 12:49 AM
Hehehehe natawa ako Sa last picture. Looking nice
Also your space seems huge!
timber715
02-27-2011, 02:31 AM
you're on your way Joey... all it needed was something to start with.
I tried moving the jigsaw slowly, but still the blade drifts.
Looks like there's more to it than just pushing slower.
Ended up using the circular saw. Maingay nga lang at mas makalat ang sawdust!
Besides blade choice, orbital setting, stroke rate, and feed rate as previously mentioned, it could also be how you try to keep the blade against the fence.
To cut polycarbonate, I first used a circular saw. The cut was smooth and straight but the blade has to obliterate a lot of material being about 2.5 mm thick. It's like cutting with a grinding wheel on a cut-off saw. I felt that the saw was doing more blasting or scraping than cutting. I was also getting slight chipping at start and finish of cut. With a jig saw (result below), with blade only 1.2 mm thick, less effort is needed to push the saw, and the cut seems as smooth if not smoother (the T101A jig saw blade for acrylic glass is finer than the 60T circular saw blade), but the tool is prone to drifting as you experienced.
To keep the tool against the fence, try angling the cut towards the fence ever so slightly, as if you were trying to drift into the fence. This is more of a pressure thing, with high pressure on the front of the base plate against the fence and low pressure on the rear, such that the rear may even lose contact with fence by fraction of a millimeter.
Using this method, I was able to cut without drift.
If the blade does drift away, use the ability of jig saw to make curve cuts to your advantage. Just curve back to the fence :) which will also establish your drift-in angle or pressure differential. This will rescue the cut but leave a convex part. Then do a second pass using above technique to 'plane' away the convex curve.
Well, it works for polycarbonate. I assume above suggestions would also apply to wood.
http://img691.imageshack.us/img691/4238/img5359bs.jpg (http://img713.imageshack.us/img713/3481/img5359r.jpg)
timber715
02-27-2011, 11:09 AM
nice Guad. nice looking Lexan too, I always wanted to try my hand using that material but I just never sourced it... yet :D
joey81
02-27-2011, 12:06 PM
Thanks, guad! I'll try those in my next project.
The circular saw can really cut well. It can even become a really powerful nail cutter:
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/IMG0305/1199699399_GMtqk-M.jpg
I'm lucky its only a nick. Next time I have to be _really_ mindful of where I stick my fingers.
Here's another shot of the "multistool" in action.
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/P1150174/1199703970_M4nmv-M.jpg
That's my son helping out in painting his room.
joey81
02-27-2011, 12:19 PM
The first "product", a simple study table for SWMBO.
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/IMG0316/1199702270_R4e96-M.jpg
I didn't bother dressing up the lower parts. Wifey's only concered with the top. :p
Same "joinery" as the multistool
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/IMG0318/1199702477_6C3uy-S.jpg
For the next project, a computer/study table for my son, I'd like to try the method used in the commerically available mdf/particle board furnitures
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/IMG0319/1199719975_N8i7F-S.jpg
Anybody know where I can buy the hardware for this?
joey81
02-27-2011, 12:24 PM
Hehehehe natawa ako Sa last picture. Looking nice
Also your space seems huge!
I had the same reaction after I clamped that 2x4 :p
That used to be the 2-car garage. Will be converting it into a workshop.
timber715
02-27-2011, 12:48 PM
this is available in to suy Joey...
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/IMG0319/1199719975_N8i7F-S.jpg
this is not...
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/IMG0305/1199699399_GMtqk-M.jpg
what happened? how did it get near the blade?
please be careful around those cutting powertools even when they are powering down... glad that you are fine but not happy such an incident happened to you...
Please ALWAYS keep safe...
violaine
02-27-2011, 02:35 PM
@joey,
ang ganda naman ng bar clamps mo...locally purchased ba yan o import?
black lang kasi but i am used to seeing red jorgensens...
thanks...
nice dust factory!!!
violaine
02-27-2011, 02:40 PM
i also wonder how that finger got in the way... supporting the board from beneath?
aww! well its just a nick...
but fingernicks are always painful.
live and learn.
jarod
02-27-2011, 03:18 PM
The circular saw can really cut well. It can even become a really powerful nail cutter:
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/IMG0305/1199699399_GMtqk-M.jpg
Oh goody, perhaps your fingers were too near to the saw while holding into the guide. Not sure but I think you may opt to "simulate" a cut with the tool un-powered so you get to foresee scenarios which will avoid the above-pictured mishap.
Good thing nails grow back :D
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/P1150174/1199703970_M4nmv-M.jpg
Do I see child labor este a Zekoki power sucker here :p
joey81
02-27-2011, 05:08 PM
@docV, yes I absentmindedly supported the workpiece from below towards the end of the cut. The piece was only 2" wide. Good thing I already released the trigger and the blade has slowed down a bit.
@jarod, I'm a proud owner of that powerful sucker. I once dropped the sprayer fittings down the sink. This sucker saved the day!
jonathanscruz68
02-27-2011, 07:28 PM
thank god t'was just a nick, same thing happen with my pinky, thought the blade will stop by
the time i approach the workpiece, a split second decision...lessons learned.
better yet to let the tools on a full stop, before you take a hold of the workpiece. and it is best
to work slowly.
keep it cool the next time. ;)
jarod
02-27-2011, 11:21 PM
@jarod, I'm a proud owner of that powerful sucker. I once dropped the sprayer fittings down the sink. This sucker saved the day!
Nice to hear that sir joey! Hope you post some pics and reviews on your Zekoki.
violaine
02-28-2011, 12:38 AM
@jarod, I'm a proud owner of that powerful sucker. I once dropped the sprayer fittings down the sink. This sucker saved the day!
maybe joey can have a review of the zekoki...
i will never think twice to buy another one.
it is silent sweet (at just a little over 60dB) and powerful...with a stainless steel bucket, the cost is also sweet...its been almost a year.
maybe a thread for vacuum cleaners/dust collectors?
;)
PS
for the noise, i wanted to incinerate my shopvac 20 (more than 90dB!)! hehe
violaine
02-28-2011, 12:43 AM
at first i wanted the 40K industrial Karcher with a self cleaning filter and then i discovered the zekoki and auditioned it..true to the sales agent's claim of power and silence i grabbed it and got away with one.
joey81
03-07-2011, 10:01 PM
Last post before hitting the bed.
Thanks to you guys. I was forced to clean out the vacuum cleaner. Took some pics.
Will post them in DocV's thread later.
Armand
03-08-2011, 08:01 AM
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/P1150174/1199703970_M4nmv-M.jpg
That's my son helping out in painting his room.
ayos to Joey, training him early to be PHM member soon. :)
joey81
03-08-2011, 06:29 PM
ayos to Joey, training him early to be PHM member soon. :)
Yup! Naka-attend na nga siya ng EB last January. :p
joey81
04-24-2011, 08:33 AM
...
Pero as I progress, tumatagilid siya:
http://joey81.smugmug.com/Hobbies/Woodworking/IMG0222/1179123868_TK8Vu-M.jpg
...
I finally figured out what is wrong. The blade is going left because, well, it is pointing to the left!! Its not perfectly parallel to the center line but instead veers to the left by maybe 0.5 or 1 degree. The blade is moving left, but the jigsaw's foot is held back by the fence. Inevitably, the blade bends.
The problem lies on the blade holder mechanism, so it doesn't matter what blade I use. On of these days I'm going to take the jigsaw apart and shim a thin piece of metal (strip of aluminum soda can?) to the blade holder to correct the blade angle.
Or stick a shim on left side of baseplate near front (or, for a right fence, shim on right side of baseplate near rear). Or make a new rectangular baseplate and attach to existing at an angle.
It looks like what I proposed before won't work in this case, where the blade is drifting into the fence.
pook_ligaya
05-11-2012, 01:32 PM
I thought it was only me having this problem. However I have only a cheap Black and Decker jig saw.
In the end all problems solved by getting a circular saw for this kind of long cuts.
same as me... got a black and decker jigsaw when i was so enthusiastic abot making subwoofer boxes for cars during my high school days. im having problems in drifting the cut...good thing that the holes im making will be covered with carpet so i guess its okey haha!
but its really a different story when doing straight cuts specially on plywood, i suggest you purchase a circular saw...i got a cheap maktec circular for about 8k a few years back and its so much fun working with it.
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