joey81
04-19-2011, 04:49 PM
My car's alternator developed a problem a coupe of days ago. A respected(?) PHM member recommended Yolk's for alternator repairs. Yock's pala (thanks to another PHMer) kaya hindi ko makita sa yellow pages. :p
There are three Yock's in eyp.ph: one in Malate, one near Banawe, QC and another in Cubao.
Went to the one in Cubao because of its location and it was mentioned in other forums that it has been in business since the 70's.
Drove from Cainta with a non-functioning alternator and a half-charged battery. Syempre walang aircon. Bawal din bumusina. Dashboard indicators died on me when I reached the Kamuning U-turn slot. Buti na lang umaandar pa ang makina. Buti na lang green agad yung traffic light. Battery finally went dead when I was about to enter the driveway of Yock's. Photo finish! Hehehe.
They said the rotor was already broken. They have on stock a similar rotor that they already rewound. Swapped it in, replaced bearings. I was warned that sometimes the regulator "IC" (really an electronic module inside the alternator) gets damaged, too, along with the rotor. IC costs 2.3K
The alternator was then in the testing jig. I watched how he tested it (forgot to watch how he tested the rotor). He connected the alternator wires into the jig and turned it on. Dials and indicators showed 13V to 14V and about 18 to 20 amps. The was RED light thats continuously lit.
He said the IC is broken. I asked how did he know. He said "the red light should turn off when your battery is charging." Not convinced, I scrutinized how he connected the alternator: there are 4 contacts total, not counting the ground. I took note where he connected the red light.
He got an IC from their stock and started to took the alternator apart again. Nakabantay na ako. Hindi ko na hiniwalayan. He was acting strange while removing the IC. Parang malikot hindi mapakali.
Then he dropped everything. 12 noon, lunch.
Hindi ako nag-lunch. Hindi ko nilayuan yung alternator ko, baka masalisihan. After an hour he resumed removing the IC. I inspected the "broken" IC, looking for identifying marks, baka mapalitan, eh. Finally we got to test the alternator with the new IC. The red light now turns off.
But on a different wire!! Tinanong ko na. Bakit yang pula ang ginagamit mo ngayon, yung itim ang ginamit mo kanina, ah? Ibalik mo yung lumang IC, test ulit natin.
Doble bantay ako ngayon habang dini-disassemble ulit, baka may gawin na hindi maganda, eh. Just before he assembled it, I inspected again. One of the two contacts of the IC wasn't soldered!! "Hindi nakahinang ito, oh! Ihinang mo yan!" Another inspection, konti lang yung tingga na nakakapit. Inagaw ko na yung soldering iron, ako na ang naghinang. BTW, ngayon lang ako nakakita ng soldering iron na ganun kalaki. 3/4 yata ang laki ng tip.
Haba na pala. Fast forward... The old IC was working fine. And I kept close watch while he mounted it on my car.
Horsie is fine now. But I'm still wondering if the rotor is really broken. Maybe Jarod was right about the belt being loose.
P.S. I don't think this is the Yock's recommended by respected PHMer. Oo nga, Yolk's nga pala ang recommendation nya, :cool:
There are three Yock's in eyp.ph: one in Malate, one near Banawe, QC and another in Cubao.
Went to the one in Cubao because of its location and it was mentioned in other forums that it has been in business since the 70's.
Drove from Cainta with a non-functioning alternator and a half-charged battery. Syempre walang aircon. Bawal din bumusina. Dashboard indicators died on me when I reached the Kamuning U-turn slot. Buti na lang umaandar pa ang makina. Buti na lang green agad yung traffic light. Battery finally went dead when I was about to enter the driveway of Yock's. Photo finish! Hehehe.
They said the rotor was already broken. They have on stock a similar rotor that they already rewound. Swapped it in, replaced bearings. I was warned that sometimes the regulator "IC" (really an electronic module inside the alternator) gets damaged, too, along with the rotor. IC costs 2.3K
The alternator was then in the testing jig. I watched how he tested it (forgot to watch how he tested the rotor). He connected the alternator wires into the jig and turned it on. Dials and indicators showed 13V to 14V and about 18 to 20 amps. The was RED light thats continuously lit.
He said the IC is broken. I asked how did he know. He said "the red light should turn off when your battery is charging." Not convinced, I scrutinized how he connected the alternator: there are 4 contacts total, not counting the ground. I took note where he connected the red light.
He got an IC from their stock and started to took the alternator apart again. Nakabantay na ako. Hindi ko na hiniwalayan. He was acting strange while removing the IC. Parang malikot hindi mapakali.
Then he dropped everything. 12 noon, lunch.
Hindi ako nag-lunch. Hindi ko nilayuan yung alternator ko, baka masalisihan. After an hour he resumed removing the IC. I inspected the "broken" IC, looking for identifying marks, baka mapalitan, eh. Finally we got to test the alternator with the new IC. The red light now turns off.
But on a different wire!! Tinanong ko na. Bakit yang pula ang ginagamit mo ngayon, yung itim ang ginamit mo kanina, ah? Ibalik mo yung lumang IC, test ulit natin.
Doble bantay ako ngayon habang dini-disassemble ulit, baka may gawin na hindi maganda, eh. Just before he assembled it, I inspected again. One of the two contacts of the IC wasn't soldered!! "Hindi nakahinang ito, oh! Ihinang mo yan!" Another inspection, konti lang yung tingga na nakakapit. Inagaw ko na yung soldering iron, ako na ang naghinang. BTW, ngayon lang ako nakakita ng soldering iron na ganun kalaki. 3/4 yata ang laki ng tip.
Haba na pala. Fast forward... The old IC was working fine. And I kept close watch while he mounted it on my car.
Horsie is fine now. But I'm still wondering if the rotor is really broken. Maybe Jarod was right about the belt being loose.
P.S. I don't think this is the Yock's recommended by respected PHMer. Oo nga, Yolk's nga pala ang recommendation nya, :cool: