building a box joint jig...

[timber715]

well since I got a new dado set, I thought I start building a box joint jig ala Shopnotes...
got the plans and the drawings...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0306.jpg
got most materials and cut to size...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0307.jpg
and cut to shape as well...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0308.jpg
first thing to do is join the two bottom boards together with screws, I added glue (but that's just me)...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0309.jpg

[timber715]

on the ts, I mark the placement of the bottom board to the sides...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0310.jpg
and pre-drilled the mounting holes...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0311.jpg
then on the cms, I trim the base or bottom board until I got the fit I wanted, tight but movable...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0312.jpg

[timber715]

then onto the fixed fence, the scrap I got had an unsightly void on the edge, so I decided I'll edge band it...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0315.jpg
and while waiting to the glue to dry, I start working on the stop... two pcs. of wood that will be the stop for the face to be adjustable...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0314.jpg
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0313.jpg
and while these are also getting glued, I thought I'd round over the edges of the frames... (nice little tool...)
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0316.jpg

[timber715]

the fixed fence gets pre-drilled and attached to the main body.
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0319.jpg
as well as the stop gets installed on the fixed fence...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0320.jpg
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0321.jpg
afterwhich it gets a light coat of shellac...:rolleyes: just bec I have some for testing and for added strength... tomorrow when I have some time I star building the movable fence and maybe give it a whirl...

[Armand]

Aaaay!! Nabitin ako ng todo ah..


Sir Timb is this good for finger joint lang?..and will it require a dado blade for the TS?..

[timber715]

Aaaay!! Nabitin ako ng todo ah..


Sir Timb is this good for finger joint lang?..and will it require a dado blade for the TS?..

this one is intended for the dado blade use, it will have various faces with different sized fingers. I have made a simpler finger joint jig using the stock blade before. build is way much easier but will only work for one blade...

[Armand]

this one is intended for the dado blade use.

...... :( that's why i'm avoiding finger and dovetail joints.

[timber715]

...... :( that's why i'm avoiding finger and dovetail joints.

this one is intended for the dado blade use, it will have various faces with different sized fingers. I have made a simpler finger joint jig using the stock blade before. build is way much easier but will only work for one blade...

don't avoid these joints, they make your work so much better and stronger... nakaktipid pa sa pako at turnilyo... :p:p:p

[Armand]

he he..i misread that line...inalis ko pa ;)

Looking forward to this joint jig Sir Timb.

[timber715]

got the jig done. unfortunately I have to report to work... result muna for now.
this is the first cut on the jig.
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0337.jpg
the first test fit...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0339.jpg
asar, di ko na tama yung depth... but the fit is... well PERFECT!
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0338.jpg
woot!!!!

[moji]

Ang linis ng cuts..ibang iba nga sa leigh jig.

[timber715]

I start by adding the movable fence...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0322.jpg
squaring the fence is always important...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0326.jpg
then the adjusting screw.
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0325.jpg
then, replacing the ts blade with the dado set.
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0323.jpg

[timber715]

always check with the manual when in doubt or making changes...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0327.jpg
removed the carriage plate..
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0324.jpg
and ran the sled to make an initial cut so I can measure the correct measurements.
then with the miter gauge I cut the slot for the backing insert...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0331.jpg
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0332.jpg

[timber715]

I then added the index key...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0334.jpg
added the backing insert
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0336.jpg
and made the initial cut...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0340.jpg
the result:
clean, tear-out free and flat bottom cuts on plywood...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0341.jpg

[timber715]

notice the bottom and how flat it came out... very accurate and easy to make...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0339.jpg
the fit is snug which is either tight nor loose, which make it perfect...
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0338.jpg
and as for the SD208, I would highly recommend it. it should make life more easier and more accurate...

[chisel]

Timb how s was your bosh TS handle it, how is the vibration, In Canada its on sale, mind has I ding one time i drop it may be Ill get another set. And musta balikbayan box mo me pararating k aba uli

[timber715]

the Bosch 4100 came out with flying colors bro... vibration was hardly noticeable, actually it ran like it like the weight more than the original blade.
Yes Chisel, check out the for sale, online items part 2....

[timber715]

here is a close up of the dado blade cut... crisp and very clean... and this is on plywood which make it sweeter.
http://i865.photobucket.com/albums/ab219/timber3715/IMG_0344.jpg

[JayL]

@Timb,

Is it correct to presume that the Dado Blade is not as prone to kickback as the regular blade?

It will be good to have some fence clamps same as those of Violaine or probably the Rockler ones.

http://www.rockler.com/product.cfm?page=17821

tks

[timber715]

I knew those where the clamps you meant even before I opened the link. yes those would be great, I have made a sacrificial fence for the ts and all I needed were regular clamps for making rabbets. and since the stock I was rabbeting is 3/4" plywood only, hence the clamp needed to a tad higher than 3/4". I do want to have those but not at 35USD, its a bit pricey on my current budget.
as for the dado blades, yes they are designed to have anti-kickback feature but it isn't 100% fool proof. it will still produce nasty kickback if used the wrong way, just less prone compared to the regular blades.

[JayL]

For the dado sacrificial fence, do we need only two Rockler clamps? Would using three or four clamps be an overkill?

[timber715]

For the dado sacrificial fence, do we need only two Rockler clamps? Would using three or four clamps be an overkill?
the sreson behind using more than two clamps is to make sure you have a straight fence in relation to the original fence, unless you are sure that the sacrificial fence is straight I recommend you use no less than three clamps. four if you ant to extend it beyond the table...

[violaine]

well we got the dado blades!

since we are using a direct drive saw, one author suggested that instead of the 8 incher, its better to use a six incher dado blades for the motor to run much lighter..he said that most of the time we will be making rabbets, grooves or dadoes no more than 1 inch deep.

anyways, as long as the blade edges are sharp (and made by freud) i swear to timbers experience that the 4100 can handle the 8 inchers very well.

ps

nice fitting fingerjoints (kahit na plywood lang ha!)

[JayL]

since we are using a direct drive saw, one author suggested that instead of the 8 incher, its better to use a six incher dado blades for the motor to run much lighter..he said that most of the time we will be making rabbets, grooves or dadoes no more than 1 inch deep.


@ V

I'll make sure I check on this again before I finally decide to order my Dado Set.

[timber715]

what Doc V. said is correct, but I do like the options of cutting deeper than 1" finger joints. always nicer to have the capacity when the need comes. and in my situation it will... :)

[JayL]

So how's the 4100 taking the 8 incher. Is it showing signs of any complain at all?

[timber715]

So how's the 4100 taking the 8 incher. Is it showing signs of any complain at all?
on the contrary Jay, I think it likes it...

[JayL]

That's really good to hear. Yup the extra capacity is a real plus and the price difference between a 6" and an 8" is only $10.