The jig went through some shortcuts, not as Macduff had intended. This is due in part that i wanted to use materials i already had inthe workshop
the blade insert is painted orange, Just my personal preference. Its mdf hence it had to be coated so.. orange it is
clamping mechanism. I think this is simpler than a screw clamp. The pine (being springy somewhat) helps absorb most of the over pressure of the toggle clamp hence saving my runners from being crushed
here is my runner, rabbeted mainly due to bolts sticking out. a C purlins would've been better to use here and a thicker aluminim or a same thickness steel c-purlins would be better. But i didnt want to spend anything extra on this
Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
fence is straight forward. unlike my older malnourished fence. this thing can at least be fitted with various auxillary/sacrificial/saddle type fences over it
It has a 2x4 lumber in it so that the screws underneath has something to anchor to
Macduff's orginal plan calls for a 4 - 5 ' of table top width. This is because his jig was really meant to ease the cutting of sheet goods. however with that setup he recommend strongly that the TS top be only around 1.5' off the ground. Which i wont be doing since i hate bending. And i would prefer my CS for wide/long sheet goods cutting so a donwsized tabel top is sufficient for me
full extend to the right. Almost double my ripping capacity
i wont be using this tabel top position too much though.
the presence of the miter slots will allow for a thin strip jig which is vital for me.
A cross cut sled will be outfitted with the right end the sled jig riding on the fence and a runner hugging the left edge of the jimmy jig.
Macduff was able to make a circle cutting jig too. I havent seen how he does it yet.
If i could do things different:
1.) i woulved made a steel frame (but my mini welder isnt here yet). Then bolted it. Instead of bolting first then aligining
2.) I wouldve gotten a pre laminated sheet instead dabbing oil stain
This build took 4- 6 hours, cant remember exactly . I was doing jobs in between helping taking care of the baby hehe
Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
I see you have it working nicely Ben, but since you have a huge recess that spans the insert, would ripping plywood with a not so flat surface tend to snag on the fence holder? how secured is the locking mechanism (remember the slightest movement on this can cause kickback)?
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Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
"support inserts" of different lengths could probably help the middle surface to be more flushed.
Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
Hi Timber,
Jarod is correct
Macduff recommends to have support inserts of various sizes. Though i think two sizes are good enough. In Macduff's plan he has the recessed area edges rabbeted. Hence you can slap in rabbeted inserts too. He recommends a snug fit but stil slideable, I think his own jig uses phenolic plastic for the insert hence it works. But i maybe using mdf. If i am to do so i will have to painstaikingly edgeband the rabbeted edge... which seems kind of impractical so i am thingking of a insert that sits on the miter slot but can be shifted accordingly...
The clamping mechanism is quite rigid, even to me is surprising. I have been contemplating on having a second toggle clamp at the digonally opposite end. Another option is to have it near the power button.
Going back to the toggle clamp, it has a little play if FORCED. i test ripped a few already and its been perfect so far
That poses two problems though.
1) i am having trouble turning off the machine already as it is (hence before using it again iam making a LARGE panic off thingy, does anyone here made one? )
2.) the 2x4 plank that i would want to use has no where to attach, coz it will block the drawer. But I could always redo the drawer... but i hate making drawers coz my carcasses arent squared because i didnt really plan on attaching drawers in the first place.
spent the past week and a half making extra storage for my work are, tools, and a few jigs. I really gotta get back at making something hehehe
but just like bbn said, he enjoys making jigs... and i think i enjoy making these more than the product itself 🙂
Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
hehehe, am aware that the insert is flush, what I meant was the other part of the cut, the one near the fence or away from the insert which is both sides of the material.
example: your fence system is 4ft. wide and you are cutting a 3ft plywood in half. 1.5ft will be hitting the fence and the recess in that area and 1.5ft will be hitting the open area both of which can snag if the material is not flat. just an observation, but if it works fine, then its a great upgrade...
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Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
and Ben, for the panic switch this is what I made before for my portable rt....
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Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
You can put a long kick panel on either leg that you could safely reach when cutting big sheets. It may also serve as a "middle switch" between the TS switch and that of the mains.
Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
oh what i meant was adding inserts... maybe insert is not the correct term
There will be movable support plates that will fill in the gap.
here is Macduff's drawing from his website. the removable inserts will be the one that will act as leveled "bridge"
if in case the ply wood is really wavy ( which i will not bother anyway ) the inner edge wherein the piece enters to the upper half of the sliding table, the edge SHOULD be rounded over or chamfered.
... Are we talking about the same thing Timber? parang nalito din ako ah hehehe
Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
yup, after posting and backreading again and looking at the pictures, That is correct, adding a spacer for the gap seems like the logical thing to do. yes we are on the same page. congrats again on your new ts... :p
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Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
ang ganda naman ng panic switch mo Timber 🙂
Jarod, ahhh oo nga pala. I would like to use either my leg or knee so that should be a good quick solution. Or yung katulad ng thread mill kaya? yung wearable tapos kung natangay ka hihila yung necklace that completes the cricuit hahahahah 🙂
Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
madali lang yan bee, scrap, scrollsaw and a little handplaning (or glue a small scrap) and your done. wanted a magnetic switch kaya lang sobra mahal... kayang kaya mo yan...
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Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
heheheh
oo nga pala, the scroll saw. i had replenishement blades din nga pala
My scroll saw apparently is not ferrous metal based body... hindi magnetic!!! anyways going back
I will probablty make an oversized one where my knee can just nudge it . My infeed side has increased around 4 inches yata hence i will make this a little protruding.
Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
ang ganda naman ng panic switch mo Timber 🙂
Jarod, ahhh oo nga pala. I would like to use either my leg or knee so that should be a good quick solution. Or yung katulad ng thread mill kaya? yung wearable tapos kung natangay ka hihila yung necklace that completes the cricuit hahahahah 🙂
Any dangling material like necklace would be hazardous I think. You could also opt for pressure or step switches where the TS would only run when your stepping on the switch (if that setup would not be a hassle).
Re: down scaled Jimmy Jig on my Table saw
i was thinking of attaching something like that to the waist. But i have decided for an oversized knee switch instead.
pressure switch is the safest however , like you said, could be a hassle because different stock dimensions require a different way of carrying and feeding...
