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Light switch - electricity question

Electronics and Computers

Last Post by Anonymous 12 years ago

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ghost

(@ghost)

Posts: 32

Eminent Member

Topic starter

Okay, I'll admit I'm functionally retarded when it comes to electricity issues. I know just enough to know I DON'T know anything.

I found some switches I like from the USA (the kind I grew up with)
http://www.rejuvenation.com/catalog/products/single-pole-switch

However they're rated at:

USA
120 V
60 Hz

Would I end up melting or blowing the switch if I replaced my current switches?

I often buy lamps and lights from USA and my electrician just swaps out the cord (and not sure what else) and they work fine. Could I (he) do something to these switches to make them work for our 220V here? (like swapping out the wiring)?

THANKS!

Posted : 26/05/2013 9:16 am

balarila

(@balarila)

Posts: 1368

Noble Member

Re: Light switch - electricity question

For light switches, they would usually work.

The heat from an appliance is proportionate to the power rating or "wattage". You can roughly calculate wattage by multiplying voltage and current (or amperage). You may inspect the switch and look for the label (or embossing) of what maximum current it can handle, rated in Amperes.

For example, if the switch has a current rating of 10 Amperes, you know it can handle 1,100 Watts or 1.1kWatt by multiplying 10A x 110V. Unless you're using high power floodlights, the switch would work for general lighting. In the example above, staying well below 500Watts of lightbulbs should be safe.

I am a bit surprised at your statement that you buy lights from the US and your electrician adapts it to your home by doing something with the cord. Does this mean you have 110V power in your house? Sounds like your electrician did just that.

If so, then, your 110V switches would work fine.

Posted : 26/05/2013 11:40 am

ghost

(@ghost)

Posts: 32

Eminent Member

Topic starter

Re: Light switch - electricity question

thanks so much for the detailed reply. i got two messages back from two manufacturers as well. One basically says it's fine and the other says it's not fine.

I will give it a try in the bedroom and bath and see how it goes. The bedroom has the most lights - about 12 7 watt bulbs and 2 20 watt bulbs so i think i'm well under your 300watt max.

"OUR SWITCHES HAVE ONLY BEEN TESTED AND RATED USING 120 VOLTS AND 15AMPS.
THAT BEING SAID, OUR SWITCHES SHOULD POSE NO PROBLEMS FOR YOU. LIABILITY-WISE,
I COULD NOT RECOMMEND THESE HOWEVER. I HOPE THIS HELPS. THANK YOU!
"

"I am sorry there is nothing your electrician can do to change the voltage on the switches. He can put in a transformer in your home to cut your electrical from 220 to 120. You should talk to an electrician as 220 volts is way too much electricity for a 120 switch or fixtures using wire for 120 volts. See comments below........ Thank you,
"

as to what my electrician does i have no idea. in the kitchen i have three outlets that are 110 - the rest of the house is 220. i bought some floor lamps from the states and he said he had to do something to make them work. not sure what it was - cost about 500p (maybe he just went and got a coke) 😉

i bought 34 work lights (the clip on kind) rated at 110 from the usa as well - i plugged them into 220 outlets in the ceiling for ambient lighting - just 7watt bulbs in each and they've worked great for 2 years.

Posted : 27/05/2013 11:08 am

balarila

(@balarila)

Posts: 1368

Noble Member

Re: Light switch - electricity question

Your electrician probably got one of the wires and grounded it to achieve 110V.

Then, he got a coke. 🙂

This grounding is common practice but I am not sure if it is safe.

I always get a transformer for all my 110V appliance. I feel that is a safer way.

Perhaps others can chime in.

Posted : 27/05/2013 4:17 pm