Not sure if this has been asked before but would like to ask it again anyhow.
In the province, where power interruptions and voltage fluctuations are common, would it help preserve the lifespan of a fridge if we use an AVR?
Our fridge just died and it was barely 4 yrs old (Panasonic brand) so we got ourselves a new one, this time, from Electrolux... Hope this will fare much better... Though I have a Condura here in Manila running 8 yrs old now and it survived the onslaught of Ondoy (lumutang ito but still alive and kickin' until now with no repairs whatsoever - pinatuyo ko lang for 1 week 😀 )...
Re: AVR for Refrigerator
absolutely yes
Re: AVR for Refrigerator
Mga masters... can someone enlighten me about AVR's for Fridge usage... Most (if not all) of the "salesmen" I talked to sa mga hardware stores recommends 1000 to 1500 watts (or should I say VA) AVR's for a 12.5 cubic ft Fridge kesho nga daw malaki.
I don't think it's right... Fridges nowadays are very efficient and based on their ratings on paper, it's just around 150w to 200w so I am lost why these "salesmen" don't recommend just a 500VA AVR's.
It's either they know something I don't or they don't have any idea about basic electricity.
Re: AVR for Refrigerator
Some simple facts you need to check:
What is the actual capacity in terms of WATTAGE or Horsepower of the compressor of the Fridge?
[COLOR="Blue"]The power capacity of the AVR should be able to handle the start up power requirement of the compressor motor w/c is normally up to 3x it's normal range. ex. a 200w compressor needs an AVR with a range of 500W- 600W ideally.
[COLOR="Red"]*note- I didn't use VA as my unit reference as motors need real power values.
You need to know the lowest and the highest range of your power at home to be able to decide on what is the best AVR for you.
[COLOR="Blue"]Some areas have very small or narrow fluctuation bandwidths while others are horribly plagued with very high or very low drop in power. From what I know, power can drop as low as 175V and surge as high as 275V. If you can get an AVR with the highest and lowest range all the better for you say, 195V-250V or at least closer to the range you get at home.
Do you experience Voltage spikes or surges in your area?
[COLOR="blue"]Sometimes power just surges or drops faster than you know it happened. This unusual occurrence is the reason why your compressor conked out. In fact, if you have some electronic gadget at home that you can't explain their short life span then most likely these power gremlins are your problem. Get an AVR with a surge and spike protector incorporated in their design to rid yourself of this issue. If it has a power on delay circuit for when there is intermittent outage then your appliance is safe from the harmful effects of short power interruptions.
Good Luck!
Re: AVR for Refrigerator
Thank you Sir for the very informative response!
Some simple facts you need to check:
What is the actual capacity in terms of WATTAGE or Horsepower of the compressor of the Fridge?
[COLOR="Blue"]The power capacity of the AVR should be able to handle the start up power requirement of the compressor motor w/c is normally up to 3x it's normal range. ex. a 200w compressor needs an AVR with a range of 500W- 600W ideally.
[COLOR="Red"]*note- I didn't use VA as my unit reference as motors need real power values.
I agree, this was what I was trying to figure out (the start power requirement) but unfortunately manufacturers are not declaring this in back and white. So can I assume the rated voltage and current are accurate for this? Can I just compute based from there? I mean, I don't think they would go beyond those ratings anyway, else, firecrackers inside.
So our Electrolux (ETB3500PE) have the following:
Rated voltage (V): 220-240
Rated current (A): 1.21
Defrosting Input - 145 W (by the way, what does this imply?)
So from there, can I just compute?
240x1.21=290.4x0.5 = 145.2W or using 0.6 PF = 174.24W
So is it safe to get a 500VA (~250W) AVR? Good brand though, from Panther maybe?
You need to know the lowest and the highest range of your power at home to be able to decide on what is the best AVR for you.
Back in the province, I would assume the worst... I am eyeing for a certain Panther model that has a wide range.
Do you experience Voltage spikes or surges in your area?
Again, in the province with perennial power interruptions, I would like to assume the worst.
Re: AVR for Refrigerator
Defrosting input... There is a heating element that melts the frost. This element is rated 145 watts.
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Re: AVR for Refrigerator
^ Thank you sir... I seem to get it now , since this model has like "frost free" feature as they claim...
Re: AVR for Refrigerator
The heater is an added load to your power requirement so if the fridge is around 1/4 HP (185W thereabouts) + the heater load of 145W, you shall have a combine load of approximately 330W. Therefore an AVR of about 750-1000 Watts is your true range requirement. I kept emphasizing WATTS as opposed to VA as the latter does not represent the true power handling of the Voltage regulator. In the olden days they used transformer type voltage regulators that hold true to their specs. Now it's just pure electronics and the values of the VA may or may not even reach 80% of your true requirement on account of there are no coils or transformers that help boost the power needed for regulating electricity. If the Panther uses a transformer in their regulator circuit then you are most likely getting a good product. They also feature a step-down AVR if that is practical for you. In summary you need a 195v-275V regulating range if this is possible or something in the range of buck boost or triple boost as they are known in the AVR world. It must have a spike and surge suppressor incorporated in the circuit and must be 60hz w/a power capacity range of about 750-1000Watts. Good luck.
Re: AVR for Refrigerator
^^ Thank you mga masters! I bought the Panther PVR-1000... This thing is heavy so I would assume some form of old school transformer type design...
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