Re: All About Drywalling

Yup the best ang power actuated guns for ceiling works para less ang dust falling on you.
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Re: All About Drywalling

@ ricky
hehe, i tried nailing the hf onto the ceiling myself. Ang hirap din, kept on bending the nails once they hit the pamakuan. Tapos while you're struggling with the nail, you need someone to hold the boards up. Siguro if you have a kisame to redo, roi kaagad ang nailer. Me i only replaced 4-5 boards. If i'm lucky I won't be needing the nailer for the next 10 years....

I'm curious, do you guys have a lot of experience with gypsum boards? I know that they're not as strong as hardiflex boards, but sobra ba talagang marupok? Also, my impression is that gypsum finishes better than hf, big difference ba? Or is gypsum board walling only safe if you wallpaper it?

I wonder about the economics/pros cons of using gypsum board for interior walls, especially for relatively high traffic /crowded areas. In fact I was originally planning to use gypsum for my walls, but everyone involved objected. The thing is, the first time i had partitions made (almost 10 years ago), the contractor dissuaded me from using hardiflex for walls because they were brittle daw, so we went with plywood instead. Years later hardiflex became the default interior walling material. Baka naman gypsum's the next thing...

Re: All About Drywalling

As much as possible limit the use of wood sa house construction. Wood is highly combustible. Kung sa ceiling at wall partition mag hardiflex or gypsum board or better concrete hollow blocks. I also don't use wooden door jamb, steel jamb as substitute. Sa doors no choice but to use wood.

I remember before we suggested sa owner during renovation ng town house na mag hardiflex at metal furring sa ceiling. Pero yun trusses is still wood dahil kapos na siya sa budget. After a year nagkasunog sa area niya coming from the other townhouse unit. Some part of the wooden trusses ay nasunog pero yun ceiling nya intact pa. So konti lang fire damage sa house niya. Puro water damage dahil binomba ng tubig ng mga bumbero yun bahay niya.

Fiber cement board has 2-3 hrs fire rating.

Re: All About Drywalling

As much as possible limit the use of wood sa house construction. Wood is highly combustible. Kung sa ceiling at wall partition mag hardiflex or gypsum board or better concrete hollow blocks. I also don't use wooden door jamb, steel jamb as substitute. Sa doors no choice but to use wood.

Yeah, besides, wood's quite expensive. I actually tore down the old wooden partitions, and used the wood to repair the ceiling, build scaffolding, etc. I was contemplating steel door jambs, but settled with wood.

hehe, i tried nailing the hf onto the ceiling myself. Ang hirap din, kept on bending the nails once they hit the pamakuan. Tapos while you're struggling with the nail, you need someone to hold the boards up. Siguro if you have a kisame to redo, roi kaagad ang nailer. Me i only replaced 4-5 boards. If i'm lucky I won't be needing the nailer for the next 10 years....- uy sir ano brand ng nailer mo and what size of nails can it handle?

I'm curious, do you guys have a lot of experience with gypsum boards? I know that they're not as strong as hardiflex boards, but sobra ba talagang marupok? Also, my impression is that gypsum finishes better than hf, big difference ba? Or is gypsum board walling only safe if you wallpaper it? --not that much experience but recent qualities of gypsum boards coming out are quite impressive. Would you believe they now have moisture resistant that can be installed inside bathrooms as ceilings.And for me, for interior application I would use gypsum boards rather than cement boards, it's easier to handle and install considering it ways a ton lol, it doesn't crack, it's thicker which is better for sound absorption and it produce nicer finish when painted. Btw mas matibay Lang cement boards when it will get wet, otherwise I think mas stronger gypsum bec of the thickness. Yung plywood oo nga easier to handle, but it cost more and is harder to get a nicer finish.

I wonder about the economics/pros cons of using gypsum board for interior walls, especially for relatively high traffic /crowded areas. In fact I was originally planning to use gypsum for my walls, but everyone involved objected. The thing is, the first time i had partitions made (almost 10 years ago), the contractor dissuaded me from using hardiflex for walls because they were brittle daw, so we went with plywood instead. Years later hardiflex became the default interior walling material. Baka naman gypsum's the next thing...-Sir gypsum is the way to go, it's easier talaga to handle and to repair in case needed. And yes brittle yung cement boards pag nabangga minsan nababasag unlike gypsum or plywood na medyo may resistance pa. For walls and ceiling ok talaga yung gypsum, problem Lang is yung metal tracks hahaha but that's another issue,wink.
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Re: All About Drywalling

uy sir ano brand ng nailer mo and what size of nails can it handle?

Bro, martilyo lang nailer ko. We only had to replace a couple of ceiling boards so I figured a nailer wouldn't be economical. Kung nasira yung buong kisame, well that's another story.
Yung powder actuated nailer for concrete nails is attractive, however i'm not sure if the scale of my work will justify that. Siguro if i had to completely redo a a floor and ceiling from scratch...

I would use gypsum boards rather than cement boards, it's easier to handle and install considering it ways a ton lol, it doesn't crack, it's thicker which is better for sound absorption and it produce nicer finish when painted. Btw mas matibay Lang cement boards when it will get wet, otherwise I think mas stronger gypsum bec of the thickness.

gypsum is the way to go, it's easier talaga to handle and to repair in case needed. And yes brittle yung cement boards pag nabangga minsan nababasag unlike gypsum or plywood na medyo may resistance pa. For walls and ceiling ok talaga yung gypsum

Wow, sayang I stuck with HF for this project. Next time I go gypsum. Thanks!

problem Lang is yung metal tracks hahaha but that's another issue,wink.

Actually, I found the metal framing very easy, quick, and cheap. This was our first time we worked with light metal frames, and we had much to learn of course. But the difficulties were very easy to surmount. So i had a very positive experience with it.

There are lots of guides on the internet to constructing light metal frames, i downloaded everything i could get. Tapos I went to wilcon sa balintawak, they had a demo house made entirely of light metal frame, so i went and inspected how it was done.

Here's one: http://www.steelnetwork.com/Site/LSF

and another
www.toolbase.org/PDF/DesignGuides/BuildersSteelStudGuide.pdf

As i mentioned, one unexpected difficulty was sizing. My initial delivery of 8' studs were only 204cm, so I had to get 10' and cut them to size.

The other lesson learned was to box the tracks and studs are strategic locations using short (2-3 inch ) lengths. Why? It's not for strength.

When you fix the boards kasi, the screw or drillbit presses on the tracks before drilling through it. Between studs, or in corners, the studs and tracks tend to bend inwards making it hard to drill through. Later on, when a lot of screws are in place, the board itself holds the studs and tracks so you can easily drill them, but boxing them in the edges makes it easier to install the first, most difficult screws.

bro ricky, did I overlook something? I hope not, all my boards are up already....

Re: All About Drywalling

What do you mean by box?

Re: All About Drywalling

@ Bro zepol,

WOW naman, installed na pala all hardiflex boards, you did not show as some pics naman, sayang
bro you did not show us how you installed the metal studs on your ceiling and partitions. I was hoping you will bro, maybe some step by step installations of the studs, bolts and whatever, kasi very much intereted rin ako to know and learn the proceedure . :p :p :rolleyes: :rolleyes:

Bro, martilyo lang nailer ko. We only had to replace a couple of ceiling boards so I figured a nailer wouldn't be economical. Kung nasira yung buong kisame, well that's another story.
Yung powder actuated nailer for concrete nails is attractive, however i'm not sure if the scale of my work will justify that. Siguro if i had to completely redo a a floor and ceiling from scratch...

-hehehe mahirap nga Kung martilyo, usually for hf I use cement board screws the drill diretcho sa tracks just like the way we do with gypsum. Problem Lang sa CB is Hindi maibaon masyado yung screw head unlike sa gypsum and plywood na pwede nakatago talaga since makapal and softer yung material. Minsan i tried to make the screw head flushed with the CB, una nabiyak yung board then most of the times nasira na yung thread nun screw kay a nawalan na ng kapit, sakit sa ulo at sobrang nakakangawit sa leet hehehe.

Wow, sayang I stuck with HF for this project. Next time I go gypsum. Thanks!

Actually, I found the metal framing very easy, quick, and cheap. This was our first time we worked with light metal frames, and we had much to learn of course. But the difficulties were very easy to surmount. So i had a very positive experience with it.

-yes it's easier than working with lumber, pagupit gupit Lang. Sa simula you will tend to overdo the framing thinking it's weak, pero once the gypsum board attaches to it ayun na solid na sya, actually they complement each other talaga. Unlike sa wood setup where yung lumber is enough for stability and plywood will act as cover na Lang most of the time.
Sir can I ask what method did you use to build the frames? Screw or rivets? Screw way way easier but less stable kasi(prone to vibrations) while rivet naman parang 2 process kaya longer time to do but is more stable. Seen the 2 process in diff scenarios and both have their own pros and cons.

There are lots of guides on the internet to constructing light metal frames, i downloaded everything i could get. Tapos I went to wilcon sa balintawak, they had a demo house made entirely of light metal frame, so i went and inspected how it was done.

Here's one: http://www.steelnetwork.com/Site/LSF

and another
www.toolbase.org/PDF/DesignGuides/BuildersSteelStudGuide.pdf

-thank you for the link sir.

As i mentioned, one unexpected difficulty was sizing. My initial delivery of 8' studs were only 204cm, so I had to get 10' and cut them to size.

The other lesson learned was to box the tracks and studs are strategic locations using short (2-3 inch ) lengths. Why? It's not for strength.

When you fix the boards kasi, the screw or drillbit presses on the tracks before drilling through it. Between studs, or in corners, the studs and tracks tend to bend inwards making it hard to drill through. Later on, when a lot of screws are in place, the board itself holds the studs and tracks so you can easily drill them, but boxing them in the edges makes it easier to install the first, most difficult screws.

bro ricky, did I overlook something? I hope not, all my boards are up already...

-about size of tracks, usually it's 2.44m talaga whether from igros or sa home depot. Anyways baka diff brand have diff sizes. Also materials comes in 3m and 5m din.

Sir for ease of installing the boards, one tip "use longer screws 2"-3". These would augment the slight bending of the frame once the tip of the screw starts to penetrate, pero once kumapit na lalapat na din sya wink. Also get good quality screws kasi most of the time bago bumaon yung ulo eh bilge na yung screw head kaya ayaw na kumapit sa screw bit.

Also another technique I can share is to screw the head just flat Lang muna when using electric drill then manually sink the head na Lang after, with this maiiwasan mo masira yung head and also Madurog yung board, meaning lesser masilya.
Hope sir I was able to help you .
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Re: All About Drywalling

@ricky

We used rivets. I saw the special screws for the light guage studs, but we already had a box of rivets so we used that. We didn't rivet much, just enough to hold them in place kasi nga the boards were there for the stiffness. Also, i think over fixing the studs might be a bad thing, since it prevents them from adjusting to the weight of the boards.

Very elegant, the light gauge steel wall concept. It's essentially a torsion box, or a stressed skin. Just like an airplane design, it uses the tensile strength of the boards to create a stiff but light structure.

Re: All About Drywalling

Hinge Mortise Tiem!

24 precise hinge mortises in a jiffy!

Re: All About Drywalling

@ rosy
i only used metal for walls. the ceiling was still ok so for next time lang yung suspended ceilng.

i didn't have good pics sa framing. mas clear pa rin yung diagrams from the how-to's. sa photo the important details weren't clear.

if you like i'll just sketch...
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Re: All About Drywalling

Stuff i used:

http://www.renovation-headquarters.com/steelstuds.htm

Re: All About Drywalling

Does anyone use nail guns for fixing hardiflex/gypsum on steel studs? Power driven screws are quick enough, but screw heads are harder to hide when finishing.

Re: All About Drywalling

its a problem to hide screw heads in ficem board when you are using the thinner studs. use thicker studs so that it will hold the screw thread well & will full the screw in. or widen the hole in cement board using masonry bit of the same size sa screw head..... i did not encounter this problem in fixing gypsum board because it softer than the fiber cement board.