Re: Pylox Spray paint

I had a similar result when i enamel (brush) painted a GI sheet then subsequently sprayed pylox clear to get a uniform sheen. It started to have crack marks on the paint.

I read somewhere that subsequent painting on previously painted layers should take place right after the previous layer is just DRY TO TOUCh if you let too much time pass you can no longer paint unless you wait for the previous layer to FULLY cure. usually 48 hours or more.

I havent tried the above theory though

Re: Pylox Spray paint

did you used the same kind of paint? ie lacquer paint?

Re: Pylox Spray paint

did you used the same kind of paint? ie lacquer paint?

I had the same problem before. I sprayed anti rust primer(it was lacquer based) and finished it with a acrylic based paint.. It made a real mess. (newbie mistakes... hahaha )

Now, I stopped using aerosol paints and opted to an air-compressor.

Re: Pylox Spray paint

My experience with pylox spray paint, when its almost emptied and try to spray once more its like spitting, that comes out (butil butil) it really mess up your work. that why i change my brand.

Re: Pylox Spray paint

It is very important to work w/ products of the same base component ex., lacquer to lacquer, acrylic to etc. As a rule check immediately the base of your material choice and make sure the brand you choose has a full line or system of what you need before you buy it otherwise it will all go to waste. Coats done between layers w/in a limited time (dry to touch) is also ok as long as the base is as mentioned earlier, the same. However, this is limited to application of primer and/ or sealers and base colors. Topcoats need a wider time gap to allow film hardness and curing to effect before over coats. This allows you to improve imperfections before you lock in your final coat. Good luck!

Re: Pylox Spray paint

I had a similar result when i enamel (brush) painted a GI sheet then subsequently sprayed pylox clear to get a uniform sheen. It started to have crack marks on the paint.

I read somewhere that subsequent painting on previously painted layers should take place right after the previous layer is just DRY TO TOUCh if you let too much time pass you can no longer paint unless you wait for the previous layer to FULLY cure. usually 48 hours or more.

I havent tried the above theory though

+1, read that too. Something about the recoat window of just about 10 minutes, else you have to wait 48 hours. Well, i bought some rustoleum so i'll take heed of other people's experience when i apply it (hopefully in two weeks time.)

Pylox is soft. That's what i used to put some color on my toolbox and drill press- i don't think it ever added to rust or abrasion resistance.

Re: Pylox Spray paint

Something weird happened.

I spray painted a couple of stainless steel tubes/tubo. I started with Pylox anti-rust primer, then let it dry for about 2 hours. results were good. Then I spray painted with Pylox black. What happened was the surface texture was all cracked up. Its like the black reacted badly to the primer. Anybody experienced this?

Hi there Kenneth,

I don't know if this reply will still be of help to you since you posted your question last March 2010 pa, but if it will not then let me just give a say regarding this matter of cracking sprayed paints.

I think I know what happened here, yes you spray painted your stainless tube with Pylox anti-rust primer then let it dry for two hours, this got me thinking, first of all,what is the purpose of spraying an anti-rust primer on to a stainless tube, a metal that doesn't rust, it doesn't make sense to me, secondly instead of spraying an anti-rust primer you could have skipped that and simply hand sanded the stainless tube lightly to give it some roughness or texture for the purpose of the sprayed paint to hold well and to adhere well. Now after sanding the tube you can now directly spray onto the tube, giving it several coats for even finish, but before each new coating, the previous coat must be totally dry.

Now going back to what happened to your painted surface, I personally think your anti_rust primer was not really dry enough and ready for the first coat of the Pylox black paint. Possibly also your anti-rust primer was applied to thickly. You should have added some more time for the primer to really get dry. Painting over a semi wet primer will really post a problem for the top coat. Maybe the anti-rust primer was dry to the touch but inside it it was still semi wet, as the wet primer starts to get dry, the paint on top of it will also move dislodging the binding properties of the top coating which will result to cracking of the top coat surface as it dries too. 🙁

That is the same principle in our case when we do oil paintings, the underpaintings, a mixture of turpentine and linseed oil are thinly applied onto canvas used to block out light and shadows and establish forms and images. Before we apply the final thick oil colors we see to it that the initial underpainting is completely dry, if not cracking of the final paint coat will manifest as it dries up too.

I hope this explanation and comparison will give you an idea already on what mistake maybe occured on how you applied your anti-rust primer and the final top coat of the PYLOX spray paint. The blame cannot be put on the spray paint but on the wrong proceedure of applying the paint. 😮

CHEERS and have a nice day. 😀 🙂

Re: Pylox Spray paint

Excellent explanation, Rosy. I learned something there, too.

Re: Pylox Spray paint

Yes sir ding, thanks and I hope really that I was able to contribute some necessary info regarding simple spray paint application, kahit katiting lang na info, ok lang sa akin basta maka share lang ng konting knowledge.

Oh I forgot to mention the principle of applying paint, its always thick over thin base underpainting

Re: Pylox Spray paint

Sometimes you hear, Wait ... a long time, the longer the better ... for the lower layer to fully cure before applying next layer. Higher layer needs a stable foundation. Otherwise the ground will shift from under it.

Other times you hear, Apply the next layer before the lower layer has fully cured, so that they can better stick to each other. There is a window of time, when lower layer is soft ... not fresh dripping wet, but not fully dried/hardened either.

I suppose it depends on what the layers are.

It's all so confusing.

Re: Pylox Spray paint

Sometimes you hear, Wait ... a long time, the longer the better ... for the lower layer to fully cure before applying next layer. Higher layer needs a stable foundation. Otherwise the ground will shift from under it.

Other times you hear, Apply the next layer before the lower layer has fully cured, so that they can better stick to each other. There is a window of time, when lower layer is soft ... not fresh dripping wet, but not fully dried/hardened either.

I suppose it depends on what the layers are.

It's all so confusing.

Right you are Sir GUAD. It all depends on the base of the paint you use, URETHANE, ACRYLICS, LACQUERS etc. Study the material specs of the paint of your choice and you wont go wrong.
Here are a few tips you might be able to use:
1) Lacquers, Acrylics and Urethanes though they are all solvent based chemicals have different drying and curing requirements.
2) Lacquers dry fast as acrylics but cracks in the "dry to touch" window due to poor film strength.
3) the more durable acrylic is safe for the "dry to touch" window because of it's film strength and curing speed. It adheres better when a film is sprayed over a softer layer w/c fuses them together completely. However, Topcoat has to be sprayed w/ wider time gaps as explained earlier in my previous quote.
4) Urethanes are one of the toughest to use but w/ successful application approach it will be easy as using acrylics. They dry longer between coats than acrylics. Can use the "dry to touch" window but w/ topcoat you really have to give a wiiiiide time gap. Much longer than acrylics. In the advent of Spray booths, HVLP's and UV lamps, application has changed very much w/ urethanes. Hope this helps!

Re: Pylox Spray paint

Oh I forgot to mention the principle of applying paint, its always thick over thin base underpainting

....the fat over lean rule in oil painting..(sorry for the OT) 🙂

Re: Pylox Spray paint

Thank you very much! That makes a lot of sense.

Re: Pylox Spray paint

....the fat over lean rule in oil painting..(sorry for the OT) 🙂

Right you are there sir Armand, its fat over lean, that's in oil painting. But sometimes we can do without the underpainting and apply the oil paint thinly or thickly direct on the painting boards or canvas. :painting: Hope admin will kinda understand the somewhat off topic :offtopic: but I think this little explanation or information is also somehow related specially concerning proper application of fat over lean paints.

CHEERS to everyone, :party: