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Renovation Tips - converting terrace into a room (10.5 sqm) and etc.....

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mig21
(@mig21)
Posts: 116
Estimable Member
Topic starter
 

Good dAy Pinoyhandyman experts !

Once again, ill appreciate all the help I can get with this new project of mine. Im planning to "close" out the existing terrace and convert it into a room. I plan to construct efficiently - using cost effective materials to save a lot of time and money. My crew is just 1 mason/carpenter, 1 helper, 1 painter and me doing occasional DIY and supervision. We plan to finish this in 2-3 weeks give or take additional work and repair. by the way, this is a lowcost housing project that ive slowly renovated over time...

questions : (see pics attached)

EXISTING:

PROPOSED

1. Is this advisable - use 4" CHB for lower wall (floor to window) , drywall for upper wall (window to ceiling))? Purpose is to prevent rust of the metal furring parts if i go drywall from floor to ceiling. Also, if we go drywall.. what are the materials needed? cement board or gypsum board?(hardiflex thickness, metal furring dimensions, etc?)

2. will install that "silvery" insulation beneath the roof, will use SHERA boards for exterior ceiling as they have buiit in holes for that minimal design that i need. Hardiflex boards probably for the interior ceiling, Question - how thick for the board? what metal reinforcement needed?

3. 4" CHB - existing wall treatment when i got the unit was already smooth plastered. Im having challenges on how to achieve smooth concrete plastering on my previous works. its costly and a time consuming task - would you suggest i use a type of cement ideal for plastering (excel wallright?) and do away with skim coating, or both? if i skim coat, can you give me a short overview of how its done? i think my painter is doing it wrong with skim coat, as i think he "consumes" too much.

4. i have a lot of patching compound (2 sacks) from the last gig --- would this be better than skim coat? skim coat seems expensive.

5. there's a surface in the facade that's "bubbling" - area is prone to water exposure, the paint is penetrated by water (from rain), ANy recommendations on how to fix this? i plan to scrape this and start from scratch. i have two bottles of MAXSEAL cementitous waterproofing available... would this suffice?

that's all for now -- appreciate the help masters!

 
Posted : 30/09/2014 5:33 pm
(@twisted)
Posts: 103
Estimable Member
 

Re: Renovation Tips - converting terrace into a room (10.5 sqm) and etc.....

Good day, 1st off nice sketchup skills! i wish i could be as skillful:D
Not a master by any means, but i noticed that the opening of the garage has no concrete post, or if there is maybe its not as large. So is im wondering if adding weight on the terrace is a good idea, maybe you could consult an engineer or a contractor on this. If consulting an engineer is not possible(strict schedule of the project), id keep the construction weight to a minimum.

Like using steel frames and fibercement, light gauge steel for trusses etc. Or if you would consider using glass and aluminum for the front side of the house.

if weight is not a problem then go for CHB, although im not a big fan of palitada.

 
Posted : 01/10/2014 4:51 pm
mig21
(@mig21)
Posts: 116
Estimable Member
Topic starter
 

Re: Renovation Tips - converting terrace into a room (10.5 sqm) and etc.....

@twisted - thanks! weight wont be a problem i suppose as there's concrete beams and columns (30x30cm) at the garage corner. I just didnt post actual pics (for privacy 🙂 ), but the rendering is close enough. There is already an existing roof/gazebo using 4" square tube post, and 1x4 rectangular tube as rafters. What im more particular is the choice of materials to use, for speed/ease of installation and price friendly. And yes, im not a fan of palitada too.. for exterior concrete im fine with rough cement finish as long as its done right. its for the interior smoothness that im more concerned though (especially if workers are not so-skilled).

 
Posted : 01/10/2014 9:22 pm
mig21
(@mig21)
Posts: 116
Estimable Member
Topic starter
 

Re: Renovation Tips - converting terrace into a room (10.5 sqm) and etc.....

up lang for this mga masters.. need advice po, particularly sa hardiflex/drywall partition. What's the recommended Hardiflex size for Interior and exterior walls? and also for sizes for its corresponding metal furring? (or standard sizes na ba sila?). I want something easy to build and would last 🙂 thank you!

 
Posted : 12/10/2014 12:51 am
(@thehousekeeper)
Posts: 1
New Member
 

Re: Renovation Tips - converting terrace into a room (10.5 sqm) and etc.....

interested in this project. how's it going? what materials did you end up using? please share. thanks!

 
Posted : 24/10/2014 8:20 pm
horge
(@horge)
Posts: 226
Estimable Member
 

Re: Renovation Tips - converting terrace into a room (10.5 sqm) and etc.....

licensed architect here.

1. Is this advisable - use 4" CHB for lower wall (floor to window) , drywall for upper wall (window to ceiling))? Purpose is to prevent rust of the metal furring parts if i go drywall from floor to ceiling. Also, if we go drywall.. what are the materials needed? cement board or gypsum board?(hardiflex thickness, metal furring dimensions, etc?)

That approach is certainly used to reduce weight of interior walls.
For exterior walls, there are serious disadvantages, particularly with
respect to fire protection.

One side side of the structure seems to be built right up to the property line,
or indeed firewalled to an immediately adjacent unit in a duplex or rowhouse
context. A proper firewall (plastered masonry) is required in that case. You
will also have to consider vulnerabilities with respect to moisture ingress and
noise insulation. A masonry wall needs less intensive treatment, because it's
thick and solid: any moisture absorbed can travel 'down' before it travels 'in',
and resistance to noise transmission should be obvious. I don't want to trigger
a flamefest over heat insulation, lol.

2. Hardiflex boards probably for the interior ceiling, Question - how thick for the board?

I've used the Hardie's Lite 3.5 (3.5mm) without issues.
(Follow the manufacturer's instructions and you'll be fine.)
I'm old-school, though, and really prefer marine ply.

3. 4" CHB - existing wall treatment when i got the unit was already smooth plastered. Im having challenges on how to achieve smooth concrete plastering on my previous works. its costly and a time consuming task - would you suggest i use a type of cement ideal for plastering (excel wallright?) and do away with skim coating, or both? if i skim coat, can you give me a short overview of how its done? i think my painter is doing it wrong with skim coat, as i think he "consumes" too much.

Plastering techniques are discussed in several other threads.

4. i have a lot of patching compound (2 sacks) from the last gig --- would this be better than skim coat? skim coat seems expensive.

See above. Some prefer patching compound mixed with latex paint.
EVERYONE thinks their workers use too much material.

5. there's a surface in the facade that's "bubbling" - area is prone to water exposure, the paint is penetrated by water (from rain), ANy recommendations on how to fix this? i plan to scrape this and start from scratch. i have two bottles of MAXSEAL cementitous waterproofing available... would this suffice?

What you call "bubbling" is the terminus of the moisture's travel. That's
where the leak stopped, but not where it started. Look upwards of the
blistering, because gravity is the primary influence in the said travel.

 
Posted : 25/10/2014 4:45 am
mig21
(@mig21)
Posts: 116
Estimable Member
Topic starter
 

Re: Renovation Tips - converting terrace into a room (10.5 sqm) and etc.....

Appreciate the feedback Sir Horge, especially coming from you, a licensed professional 🙂

Id like to make a follow up question(s) though. YEs, Wieght reduction is also the motive with using half masonry and half drywall construction to save on material and labor time cost - i hope im right here?
or it will be cost efficient wise to just go CHB all the way?

The firewall on one side will defintely be 4" CHB all the way. It's not directly on the property line as the "Brown Box" type of structure on the left is an extension of the house (we're on a corner LOT), so no problems here.

Also, going old school marine ply vs, hardi lite is interesting. Once again, cost, am i gonna spend more preparing and finishing marine ply?

thank you very much

 
Posted : 27/10/2014 11:41 pm
horge
(@horge)
Posts: 226
Estimable Member
 

Re: Renovation Tips - converting terrace into a room (10.5 sqm) and etc.....

Appreciate the feedback Sir Horge, especially coming from you, a licensed professional 🙂

Id like to make a follow up question(s) though. YEs, Wieght reduction is also the motive with using half masonry and half drywall construction to save on material and labor time cost - i hope im right here?
or it will be cost efficient wise to just go CHB all the way?

The problem is that your existing floorslab wasn't built with a stiffener
(let alone a beam) to support an all-masonry wall. You are forced, for
safety's sake, to go light.

You should describe the proposed roof of your expansion. I'm sure PHM
would be interested to know how you intend to address drainage (slope
minimums, downspouts, etc.), heat and rain-noise insulation issues.

Good luck.

 
Posted : 28/10/2014 6:18 am
mig21
(@mig21)
Posts: 116
Estimable Member
Topic starter
 

Re: Renovation Tips - converting terrace into a room (10.5 sqm) and etc.....

There is already an existing Roof - trellis/shed type using square bars. In terms of leaks, rain noise and heat insulation, so far, so good, with the undoline "rubber" roofing. Im going low-cost, so i probably wont install downspouts, just an open canal at the edge of the slab that drains to a pvc pipe to the ground. I appreciate your inputs sir, and i hope i can save time and cost with going light rather than going full masonry. thank you.

 
Posted : 28/10/2014 9:51 pm
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