Re: duco finishing

Locally, "duco finish" means a super-smooth, high-gloss, durable, automotive-grade paint job,
applied to furniture or cabinetry, although the term has become much-abused over the past
20 years, with some applying the term to just any gloss-enamel finish.

As I apply it, it involves a tough-curing automotive body-filler/primer, diligent sanding, then
at least two coats of color with fine sanding as necessary, a clear topcoat for gloss, and of
course, the proper time and temperature for curing to hardness. Just like you'll see being
done for cars by some auto shops.

The term "duco" comes from a DuPont automotive paint (DuCo is short for DuPont Color),
which dates back to the 1920's. The local term "duco finish", as applied chiefly to furniture
and cabinetry painting, has been around for as long as I can remember --as far back as the
very late 60's, and may go back even farther.

Again, it all came from Dupont's "Duco" automotive finishes, lol.

Think of the way the brand "Frigidaire" (pridyider) came to locally denote all refrigerators.
Or the way "Joe Bush" (dyobos) shoeblack came to locally denote all shoe polishes.
Not too long ago, the same was true for Eveready and batteries.
And so on...

Re: duco finishing

To simply put it, You paint wood the automotive way. Sand - filler - primer - paint - clear coat.

Re: duco finishing

Yeah, right, the coined word DUCO have become known for that kind of finish and type of painting. We can always use other brands to get the same glossy finish but perhaps we will call it still Duco finish, LOL !

Re: duco finishing

Can I please ask for some help? I'm new to the DIY hobby 🙂 I made a small kid's table out of a plywood. I'm not exactly sure if you call that "duco" finish, but I want a smooth painted white finish. this is the procedure I'm considering:

1. Sand raw surface using SP #120
2. apply lacquer primer, let dry
3. apply lacquer spot putty, dry
4. sand everything using SP #200
5. apply lacquer primer again, dry
5. 1st coat automotive lacquer paint, dry
6. 2nd coat automotive lacquer paint, dry- finished.

Will this work?

Also, some question
a. if the above procedure if correct, should I be using enamel paint instead of lacquer? I actually don't know how they're different from each other.
b. for bigger gaps and joints, someone told me carpenters don't use lacquer putty, they use polituff, because it's stronger and won't shrink. I'm worried that it might show through the paint over time, since it's pink?
c. enough ba na spot spot lang yung putty? Shouldn't the 'masilya' cover the entire surface of the boards to ensure smooth finish?
d. should I use wood filler instead of lacquer spot putty? or maybe the patching compound+latex combo that someone suggested?
e. can i use a quarter sander? for steps 1 and 4 above? Or better if by hand?

Thanks!! I'm so overwhelmed by the choices of paints and putty, and what would work well together.