sir what kind of water pump are you using? can you share a picture of the water pump you are using? where did you avail this filter for the pump? i'm planning also to install deep well in my house

@ irobuang, the motor i use is just a standard 1 HP water pump, china made :-), i got it from my hardware supplier here in Tampakan. the price was P2,999. this is the photo of the water pump motor when we temporarily installed it to another existing deep well during the early stages of the house construction. i also took a photo of the motor specs shown in the box before i threw it away ... cheers

Boo!

@ irobuang, drilling a deep well here is all done manually and can be completed in less than a day, that includes installing the manual water pump ... i recommend you use a jetmatic rather than a normal pitcher pump, mas magaan gamitin :-). labor (pakyawan) for the drilling is base on the cost of the number of pipes that will be use for the deep well. in my case, i use the 2" GI pipe (gauge 40), instead of the 1-1/4" that they normally use here - the water reserve at the bottom of the deep well will be larger and you get to use a bigger (1-1/4" instead of 3/4" or 1") pvc pipe (they call it straw) inside the deep well, which means your water volume will be larger ... with 2 GI pipes, the drillers already hit water but i told them to add another pipe to ensure that i use a deeper water bed for my water supply - this is critical during summer months, the deeper the water bed you use, the smaller is the chance that it will run out of water during summer ... whether you will install a motor pump or not, it's better to include it in the plan when your drilling the deep well ... para naka abang na siya when you want it ... here are the things that you will need:
- depending on the size of your deep well pipe, you may need a coupling reducer as most manual water pump (pitcher, jetmatic, etc) uses 1-1/4" GI pipe ...
- (most important) 1-1/4" to 1" tee reducer ... the 1" is the one going to the motor pump ... use a 1" plug if you plan to install the motor pump later ...
- 1-1/4" check valve for the manual water pump ... only needed when your installing the motor pump ...
- 1" check valve for the motor pump ... only needed when your installing the motor pump ...

i'll also share later how i setup the water system in the house we are constructing ... cheers

Boo!

@ irobuang, the labor for the drilling of the deep well does not include the setup of the motor and the pressure tank. as such, rather than pa gawa ko sa iba na bara-bara ang gawa, i decided to just do it on my own and design the setup for easy maintenance 🙂 ... it may seem daunting, but its really quite simple to do ...
it can be done using GI pipes or pvc pipes. i decided to use GI pipes as its more sturdy compared to pvc pipes - pag na bagsakan ng mabigat or may na talisod, for sure basag or sira ang connections ... the real hard part is planning the layout of the deep well, motor, and pressure tank for easy maintenance and how to connect the main components ... below are the things that you should consider ...
- use only one size for the pipes and this will be 1" diameter ... the pump filter case comes in 3/4" and 1" connection, make sure you get the 1" ...
- use a union coupling (they call it union patente) to separate each of the major components (deep well, motor, pressure tank, house water inlet) ... you need this to break up the major parts in case of repair or maintenance ... this means you need a minimum of 4 pcs of union patente ...
- from deep well to motor pump ... 1 check valve (to prevent pressure lost, para di bumalik and tubig) before the pump filter + pump filter + motor pump ... you can decide where you want to place the union patente ... for the pipe going into the water pump (normally at the top of the motor), you need to put a tee (with a plug) before the water pump ... why? in case your water pump is having problems sucking the water from the deep well due to low pressure, you can pour water into this tee to help your water pump suck the water at the early stages of your deep well ... konti pa ang water reserve at the bottom of the deep well ...
- from motor pump to pressure tank ... you only need a union patente + check valve between the 2 nodes ... the pressure tank normally has 4 connections (1) 1" outlet for incoming water (the lower of the 2 at the side of the tank) ; (2) 1" outlet for outgoing water to the house ; (3) 1/4" outlet for the pressure gauge and the pressure switch that controls the motor pump. you need a tee and 3 nipples to connect the gauge and the switch to the pressure tank ; (4) 1/2" outlet at the bottom of the tank for the drain - don't use this for releasing the pressure of the tank as it's to difficult to unscrew the plug for maintenance ... pressure switch wirings to the motor pump and the AC outlet is easy to install, just follow the instructions. setting the PSI for the auto OFF switch is also simple, just follow the instructions ... no need to worry for the auto ON switch as this is normally set to be 10 PSI lower to the OFF PSI setting that you have set for your pressure tank ... a normal pressure tank has the capacity to handle 40-45 PSI max, for me, setting the max PSI (OFF) to 20 is just right ...
- from pressure tank to house ... you just need a ball valve and a way to release the pressure (in case of maintenance or repair) of the tank between the 2 nodes ... for my case, i just installed a faucet before the ball valve which i use for watering my garden at the back of the house 🙂 he he he ...

from the above, you can then plan and measure how many elbows and nipples you need to connect all of the nodes. the 1" GI nipples are from 2" to 12" in lenght (i think), more than enough possible combinations to connect all the nodes ... with 2 monkey wrench and some teflon tape you can setup the whole thing in 1-2 days ... the most important thing is to plan/measure the layout based on your requirements ...

next, i'll share how i setup the water system in the house to have 2 sources of water for backup / contingency ... cheers

Boo!

using a pressure tank as the main source of your water supply at home is quite expensive due to the electricity used for the motor pump. one way to reduce the electricity is to let the water pump only run once a day to fill a water tank. in case the demand for water is heavy for a particular day, then you can switch to use the pressure tank the source. doing this in a simple and convenient way is what i did with the water supply at the house we are constructing ...
to do this, i simply installed 3 ball valve in a triangle setup ... the one at the bottom is the switch to use the pressure tank as the main source ... the one on the top is the switch to use the water tank (WIP, i have not decided yet what type of tank to use) on the roof deck as the main source ... the one at the middle is the switch that controls water from coming into the house ... a simple design that is easy to maintain ... cheers

Boo!

Hi Boo

The foot valve is to prevent reverse flow. Th strainer is for protection of the pump and foot valve. The filter you have installed before the pump is not desirable. It is normally installed after the discharge side of the pump. What you need is another strainer, but at least 1 size larger nominal pipe diameter and with smaller strainer openings.

To increase pump efficiency; miminize the pipe fittings(elbows, tee, etc) before the pump suction. and there should be no fittings between 5-10 pipe diameters; and if possible in your current set up. make the suction line horizontal to the vertical pipe(the underground pipe) and closer.

I hope this helps.

bmac, thanks for the feedback. i'll reply to it later today. we need to take my son to marbel today for his wisdom tooth operation ... cheers

Boo!

@ bmac, again, thanks for the feedback 🙂 ... all of the the foot valve product i saw here has the strainer and the valve in one product. the people drilling the deep well just call them foot valve. as this is normally installed inside the deep well, i really don't want it as it will be a maintenance problem to me in the future. as such, in my deep well now, there in nothing inside the deep well except the pvc tube that they call as a "straw". your right, the valve prevents reverse flow and the strainer protects the valve and the pump. what i did was instead of putting this 2 function below ground, i put it above ground for easy maintenance. the downside of this, which i notice everytime i clean the filter, it takes a few seconds (after the pump has started) for the water to flow, i can see it in the transparent case of the filter. the reason i think is, when i opened the filter (for cleaning), the pressure is release causing the water in the deep well to go down (reverse flow). if there was a foot valve inside the deep well this will not happen. so when the pump first starts after i re-installed the filter, water will take awhile (approx 5-10 seconds) to be suck by the pump. after that, everytime the pump starts, no problem, as there is already pressure inside the pipe to the water source. it's a trade off i'm willing to take for easy maintenance of the system moving forward. one thing i'll do is to switch the filter and the check valve (brass thing before the filter in the photo), this way the filter will also protect the check valve and the pump. the filter right now only protects the pump. and it does really protect it, when i clean it once a week, i see a lot of sand and small stones at the bottom of the filter. i just need to switch it with the check valve so that it also protects it.

as for the fittings between the pump and the horizontal position of the pipe to the deep well and the pump, your right it should be straight and with minimal fittings. this was really my plan, but sad to say, i could not find any shop here in tampakan or marbel that can perform the threading service for a 1" pipe. the people who drilled the deep well only has a threader for a 1-1/4" pipe 🙂 he he he ... buying a pipe threader set is out of the question as it cost 7k for a set (i tried buying only for a 1" pipe but no one sells it) which i won't be using that much ... so i have no choice but to use the existing 1" nipples (different lenght) that i can buy at citi hardware and just connect it with elbows and tees for me to have a working pressure tank while the house is being constructed ... cheers

Boo!

Thanks sir Boo for sharing here the details of your deep water well project. I learned a lot from your set-up. I'm planning to have one at home with manual hand pump only but after reading your message above, now I'm thinking to make a set-up ready for motorized water pump installation in the future.

Can I ask a question about the 1-1/4" PVC pipe called "straw", where is this connected? In your set-up, of three length GI pipe (2" dia.), how long is the "straw" pipe?

@ Anton_1925, good question 🙂 he he he ... i did not see how they set it up, but they place a male pvc adaptor on top portion of the "straw" ... logically, this can only be connected to the inside of the 2"x1-1/4" reducer ... parang nag share yun pvc male adaptor and the another 1-1/4" nipple (connecting the 1-1/4 tee to the pipe) to the 1-1/4" female end of the reducer ... the pvc "straw" is also 3 pieces of pvc pipe, and since the GI pipe (3 pcs also) is longer than than pvc pipe, the end of the straw does not reach the bottom of the deep well ... hope this info helps you ... cheers ...

Boo!