Re: Latex paint for plywood?

the store personnel is misguided and will share the virus to you.
even though the latex will bind to the enamel, it wont do so avidly and thereby fail soon by flaking.

it still holds true that latex are for concrete and the like...

here is the solution to your problem.

one solution but better in my opinion.

since odour is your problem...you need to primer again the ceiling..for this i recommend Stain Halt by Ace...this will cover the flat enamel and when dry, usually an hour but better the following day...you can use use your favorite low odour ready mixed acrylic paints... Stain Halt is available in quart and in gallon (1,199 pesos) at ace hardware...relatively expensive though but it is a sure hit.

i dont use latex anymore...as well as enamels...

now you are not missing anything.

Re: Latex paint for plywood?

i find Stain Halt a wonderful primer and so i use it on concrete as well..

😉

Re: Latex paint for plywood?

Doc,

What brand of acrylics do you use?

Re: Latex paint for plywood?

@moji,
Davies is one but rain and shine is also a good one...and its siliconized acrylics...easy to clean smudges.

i tried virtuoso by boysen and it also works well.

two things nice about them (acrylics)...low odour and quick to dry.

Re: Latex paint for plywood?

Thanks a lot for the replies. I hope home improvement stores take extra steps to educate their personnel properly. It's not as if I inquired about paints from a sales person assigned at the Plumbing Section. I specifically asked a sales staff from the Paint Section.

Thanks.

Re: Latex paint for plywood?

A quick google search on "acrylic latex paints" will show that it can be used on wood. In fact, the articles state that acrylic latex is more commonly used in the US now than enamel.

I think most of the latex paints available today are acrylic latex (waterbased acrylic). Boysen latex paints for example have "100% acrylic" written on the cans.

I called Boysen technical services and asked if they can be painted on wood- they said no:confused:.

Because of the conflicting information that I got, I tried painting acrylic latex on wood myself. Results were pretty good. It's been over a year and it hasn't peeled. The only problem is that the finish is not as smooth as enamel, so I used it mostly on cabinet interiors.

Re: Latex paint for plywood?

You can use Ace Hardware Acrylic Latex Paint, available at Ace Hardware. its made in US. Indicated in the container it can be used in properly primed wood surface.

Mas mahal lang ng konti, price range from P1,300 - P1800 per gallon depende sa color. Mas makatawan compare to other paint. Coverage 30-35 sq.m per gallon

Re: Latex paint for plywood?

there you go...you must PRIME the wood first before the acrylics..

i am using locally available acrylic paints with the best results..but i used the best primer available to bind the acrylic to the primer and the primer to the wood...the KEY to this adhesion is the primer.

you can use acrylics on wood directly and will still give acceptable (i didnt say good) results..but is this proper?

i say no...in my own little experience.

read the fine print on paint can labels..and yes you cant go wrong with Ace paints...but at an expense...but sure....the only problem is when you reach past age 40 when your vision starts declining and prints on labels are so fine and so you lose valuable info by refusing to read...just like losing bucks on insurance policies without reading the fine prints...these terms and conditions are crammed into a single page that would normally take around 10 pages of letter sized paper using the standard font 12..too "microscopic" and terminologies are so technical and the english so english (old english i mean) that you are forced to sign almost immediately (pikit mata).

anybody can experiment but not all of us are chemists...there are a lot of misconceptions passed onto generations...just like "dinikdik na bawang sa kagat ng aso"...or "wag maligo pag me regla"..

you must remember this...the promodizers at home depots are just robots..with no actual experience on their products...infos are injected to their brain and most of the time they exaggerate these infos to the bewilderment and further confusion of the consumer...their goal is to sell and kill time.

i may believe those manning the laminate floors sections telling me that PERGO can last for at least 10 years and HORNITEX much less but not those people assigned in the paint section...painting is simply a complex chemistry and not like drill bits with too few an option (HSS, carbide, titanium coated HSS).

it is acceptable to use acrylics on wood projects in places where no one will see like the carcase of the cabinets and exterior of drawers but definitely a no-no when painting wood picket fence that will be exposed to the elements.

Re: Latex paint for plywood?

I always use LATEX paint on wood and cement sometimes on metal too... Since we operate a boarding house, we cant afford those smelly paint on our rooms.. (the boarders hate it)

I prime it with Flat Latex, sometimes add calcium carbonate, to make it thicker, so I can sand it with sanding paper.

Then last coating would be the Latex Gloss..

Re: Latex paint for plywood?

I've taken to painting the inside of my boats with acrylic latex. Its easy to use.

Re: Latex paint for plywood?

+1 on Acrylic Latex. I've been using a brand "A+ plus" and is very affordable around 390 only.

Re: Latex paint for plywood?

there you go...you must PRIME the wood first before the acrylics..

i am using locally available acrylic paints with the best results..but i used the best primer available to bind the acrylic to the primer and the primer to the wood...the KEY to this adhesion is the primer.

you can use acrylics on wood directly and will still give acceptable (i didnt say good) results..but is this proper?

i say no...in my own little experience.

read the fine print on paint can labels..and yes you cant go wrong with Ace paints...but at an expense...but sure....the only problem is when you reach past age 40 when your vision starts declining and prints on labels are so fine and so you lose valuable info by refusing to read...just like losing bucks on insurance policies without reading the fine prints...these terms and conditions are crammed into a single page that would normally take around 10 pages of letter sized paper using the standard font 12..too "microscopic" and terminologies are so technical and the english so english (old english i mean) that you are forced to sign almost immediately (pikit mata).

anybody can experiment but not all of us are chemists...there are a lot of misconceptions passed onto generations...just like "dinikdik na bawang sa kagat ng aso"...or "wag maligo pag me regla"..

you must remember this...the promodizers at home depots are just robots..with no actual experience on their products...infos are injected to their brain and most of the time they exaggerate these infos to the bewilderment and further confusion of the consumer...their goal is to sell and kill time.

i may believe those manning the laminate floors sections telling me that PERGO can last for at least 10 years and HORNITEX much less but not those people assigned in the paint section...painting is simply a complex chemistry and not like drill bits with too few an option (HSS, carbide, titanium coated HSS).

it is acceptable to use acrylics on wood projects in places where no one will see like the carcase of the cabinets and exterior of drawers but definitely a no-no when painting wood picket fence that will be exposed to the elements.

HA HA HA HA HA HA :p AMEN AMEN AT AMEN parin doc V, what you have posted is really true, using acrylic latex on concrete, wood or metal or canvas will still need proper primers for the paint to adhere well. Try using this paint on unprimed surface and you'll get unsatisfactory results. On concrete without some priming will result on to rough surfaces, showing all the uneven defects of the concrete plaster, the same thing also with plywood, yes it will appear shinny because of the acrylic but loking at it closelyy you will still see the tiny texture of the plywood. And using acrylic latex on metal without priming, ha ha ha after a day or two will have stains of rust.

Acrylic latex are waterbased paints that should not be used on metal unless the metal surface is properly prepared and primed.

On my canvas, I use semi gloss acrylic latex but primed with few coats of gesso, a prime base for acrylic, watercolor or oil paints. The semi gloss acrylic latex will serve now as my painting ground giving the canvas several coats to achieve a smooth finish and in addition sanding lightly between each coat.

Going back to the sales clerks, the problem with these neighborhood hardwares or even in some hardware malls, they don't assign real expert people in what they are selling, like for example in paints, door locks and handles, adhesives, garden equipments and power tools and others. Sometimes maiisip mo maka benta lang sila ok na. 😮

There was one instance in a mall hardware when a customer was blowing his top and loosing
his patience from this sales clerk he was asking for some information or guidance, tinuro turo lang sya sa iba ibang sales clerk na hindi rin nakaka alam sa item na binebenta nila.
In the end just summoned the store manager, gave him some harsh words and lectures on good service and left the store without buying anything and with tons of frustrations. 😡

Re: Latex paint for plywood?

@rosy,

i hope hindi ka kinabagan sa katatawa..:p

Re: Latex paint for plywood?

there you go...you must PRIME the wood first before the acrylics..

i am using locally available acrylic paints with the best results..but i used the best primer available to bind the acrylic to the primer and the primer to the wood...the KEY to this adhesion is the primer.

you can use acrylics on wood directly and will still give acceptable (i didnt say good) results..but is this proper?

i say no...in my own little experience.

read the fine print on paint can labels..and yes you cant go wrong with Ace paints...but at an expense...but sure....the only problem is when you reach past age 40 when your vision starts declining and prints on labels are so fine and so you lose valuable info by refusing to read...just like losing bucks on insurance policies without reading the fine prints...these terms and conditions are crammed into a single page that would normally take around 10 pages of letter sized paper using the standard font 12..too "microscopic" and terminologies are so technical and the english so english (old english i mean) that you are forced to sign almost immediately (pikit mata).

anybody can experiment but not all of us are chemists...there are a lot of misconceptions passed onto generations...just like "dinikdik na bawang sa kagat ng aso"...or "wag maligo pag me regla"..

you must remember this...the promodizers at home depots are just robots..with no actual experience on their products...infos are injected to their brain and most of the time they exaggerate these infos to the bewilderment and further confusion of the consumer...their goal is to sell and kill time.

i may believe those manning the laminate floors sections telling me that PERGO can last for at least 10 years and HORNITEX much less but not those people assigned in the paint section...painting is simply a complex chemistry and not like drill bits with too few an option (HSS, carbide, titanium coated HSS).

it is acceptable to use acrylics on wood projects in places where no one will see like the carcase of the cabinets and exterior of drawers but definitely a no-no when painting wood picket fence that will be exposed to the elements.

Nice to see people who understand how painting works and the proper way of doing it. You got it on the dot violaine when you said that priming is best step taken in order for any coating to adhere well.

Here in the Philippines, I see workers who still insist that you have to neutralize your wall with concrete neutralizers (acid based). This process will actually open up pores of your concrete and the neutralizer dont actually go into the concrete.

In painting concrete walls - one must remember the 3P of painting. Preparation, priming and painting. I recommend that you use a concrete primer and sealer first before painting simply because concrete primer and sealers penetrates deep into the pores of concrete while not opening it up like acid neutralizers.

After the concrete primer and sealer dries, it will leave a tacky surface so that it actually increases the adhesion of any subsequent coats of paint. Another important factor to use a concrete primer and sealer is that it is already waterproof - so it helps in minimizing moisture on your wall.

Unlike flat latex paints which are heavy on calcium carbonate, talc and other fillers. Concrete primer and sealers are basically filler free. It's small particle size penetrates deep to thoroughly seal and prime your concrete surfaces. Remember latex paints are basically composed of the following:

Binder - the glue that holds all pigments and fillers and sticks it to the wall
Pigment - the color
Filler - to add volume (fillers are like P2 per kilo, cheap)
Additives - to adjust properties of the paint

From knowing the components of latex paints, you will know that the cheaper brands are basically full of fillers - that is why you have a powdery surface when it dries. And powdery surface = bad. Painters here add more patching compound to an already filler filled paint and what do you get? A masonry patch which is almost all filler and no binder (glue) to stick it the wall. And what do you get? Paint peeling on patched surface.

In short, old way is neutralize, patch with patching compound and then paint. New way is concrete primer and sealer, patch with patching compound mixed with concrete primer and sealer then paint.

Peace 🙂