Re: rust converter

In my field of work, we have been using phosphoric acid as regular as we use water. Let me share what I have learned and continuously adopting related to rust converters:

1. Most commercial products claiming to be rust converters have been marketed and reported to transform non-protective types of iron oxides and oxyhydroxides into more protective oxides. Most are proprietary formulations, but it is generally known that phosphoric and/or tannic acids are frequently used as their main constituents. Since their inception rust converter or rust transformer performance has always been under scrutiny. Research has been done on both phosphoric and tannic acid as a catalyst for rust transformation. Tannic acid is believed by some to cause the transformation of non-protective oxyhydroxides into magnetite.

2. Stainless steel is not stain-proof but it stains less because of chromium. Yes, TURCO can remove the stains if these are caused by corrosion.

3. Better to wipe-out (not necessarily flush-out with water) crystalline (magnetites) formation for smoother surface refurbishing

4. Depending on the rust formation, TURCO will become effective only after an hour. A second or third application is necessary if rust formation is dense. Immediately paint or cover the surface, if not, you will be surprised after a day, rust will form again. This is because of our humid environment.

5. When you apply rust converters to a RUSTY steel, crystalline formation will appear to show that proper chemical reaction took place. If you applied this to a metal and none appears, either the "rusting" is not being caused by FE203 (ferrous oxide/oxidation) or your rust converter just "stained" black your metal (hydroxide film). This, based on my experience, can be painted over.

Sir, for #5, does this mean that when rust converter is applied and properly dried, no washing with water/soap would be necessary?

Thanks in advance!

Re: rust converter

I could not help myself not to react or say something with the replies of other members here regarding the after use or application of a rust converter on a rusted metal.

OK, what causes a piece of steel or metal to rust ? Di ba water !!!! specially if it gets directly in contact with water and even though it does not, there's air, air with moisture or vapor. Now what do we do to address these rusts, we scrape it, wire brush it or sand it then to be sure there will be no rust left, we apply a solution called rust converter then let it dry for 12 or 24 hours, after which we wipe the crystalline particles or dust away. :bruce_lee:

Now why in the heck would anyone wash the rust free metal with water ? That I could not really understand, :dunno: :nono: we all know naman that water is a corrosive element when it comes in contact with metal, maybe excuse the stainless steel or the alums, but instead of using water and soap why not just wire brush the crystalline particles or possibly wipe off with a rug drenched with kerosene then let dry before applying metal primer and final paint finish.

Washing the metal with soap and water invites rusts again in a very short time, then BANG ! ! disaster again, your painted metal starts to rust again under the paint eating the metal slowly.

Well I guess that's your style and so be it but for sure it doesn't and will not work for me, metal is metal and water is water, contra pelo yang dalawa. :starwars:

PEACE na lang po mga brader !!!

Re: rust converter

Good point, Rosy. I have the same question re washing the crystalline stuff vs wire-brushing.

BTW, what causes rust is oxygen. Water does cause corrosion because of the O in H2O. Rusting is actually an oxidation process where elements or compounds combine with oxygen. Iron (ferrum or ferrous) combines with oxygen producing rust which is ferric oxide. Same thing when you burn something or when sliced apples turn brownish because the oxygen in the air reacts with it.

Re: rust converter

kung wala namang rust yung metal,
why use rust converter ?

if it is bare metal ( w/o rust ) or freshly sanded surface,
best is wipe it with kerosene,
let dry for a while,
then prime...

Re: rust converter

Washing away rust converter with water is not just some style or random choice. If you read the directions of some rust converters it says specifically to wash it with water. Now i don't know the exact reasons for why they recommend to wash with water but maybe its to stop the solution from further etching the metal (do correct me if im wrong) as some converters work in as fast as 15mins.

It really doesnt matter if you wash the metal with water or wire brush it, the fact remains that it will rust again if you don't apply something to protect it. As Balarila said, its the oxygen that causes rust.

If your going to paint the metal, especially with lacquers and such, is it really a good idea to wipe it with kerosene? Isn't that oily and will affect paint adhesion? I think its mineral spirits (paint thinner) that should be wiped on prior to painting. And its used as a cleaner/degreaser rather than a rust preventive.

Re: rust converter

I use lacquer thinner and cloth wipe the metal before primer painting.