Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

These metal racks are more tedious to fab than I initially thought ... but I manged to make 3 now.

The brackets for wall fastening using expansion bolts .

Everything is full welded for strength. I usually grind my welds flush but not on this build.

argggg error 99 on my Canon SLR ... intermittent .. I wonder what the problem is .. hope it's just maintenance.

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

Bro JayL,

I've been following this project of yours and I think its another good one. It will be a great help for you to organize and be saving some floor space for your metal stocks in the shop

Metal projects may be time and metal consuming plus tedious as you have expressed but I know it is always a fun to do specially for DIYers like us and specially when you see the project in its completion and probably have placed your metal stocks on the rack. This is one advantage of us who are into welding/metalworking, we have that skill to join metals and produce something also useful out of it, so just enjoy any project in mind and think positive always, just GO GO GO and instead of ranting,LOL, 😀 have fun with it !!

Congrats to your soon to be finished metal rack!!! 😉 :jazzysax:

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

Thanks Bro Rosy.

Malamig ngayon ... medyo mas ok mag welding.

I hope you start your welding wips again after finishing the repair job you are currently doing.

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

My camera is acting intermittently thus my pics are incomplete ...

decided to dry fit and install the expansion bolts prior to painting ...

2 in the middle of the legs

1 at the top ...... so 3 expansion bolts per leg

the tools .... hammer drill for pilot hole and rotary drill for the final 12mm bore

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

Cell phone pics na lang muna ...

These racks are intended for my shorter length metals which are more useful for me. I'll need to place plywood on the arms. One of the build criteria was ease of finding metal stocks when it is needed.

The longer metals I will keep on the floor.

Thinking to install some wall fasteners on the lower portion of the legs but am in doubt how useful these can still be.

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

OT:

How did you attach this to your concrete wall? Lag shield or Anchor sleeves? Which is better in your opinion?

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

OT:

How did you attach this to your concrete wall? Lag shield or Anchor sleeves? Which is better in your opinion?

I used expansion bolts .... looks effective with the walls I have.

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

The topmost short arms to store my abrasive chop saw's stand extension tubes ...

This is a Stronghand Tools heavy duty F-Clamp. Expensive at around $40 each ... however at times like this application I wish I had purchased more of the Hobart Light Duty clamps with copper plated threads ( 550 pesos each ). Sometimes heavy duty is not everything ... right tool for the job still holds. Joey81 has the sample Hobart F- clamps but more are on the way and am keeping 4 pieces for myself.

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

I installed 3.5" flat bars down on the lower most arms. It does not have a purpose at all now but am keeping it for future use if a need arise. I could easily tap the hole on the flat bar.

I'm sure there are still aging IT boys like me influenced by Bill Gates during his prime. When Gates programs his software he will add "hooks". These are entry points where he can interface codes ( ideas ) that are still non existent at the time the programs is being written. I guess that programming habit I learned had flowed to my metal working as well as evidenced by the above simple flat bar ... LOL.

I like these self adjusting locking c clamps ( CH Hanson 7CCS ) so much that I added another 2 to the arsenal ... I have 8 now and plan to add another 4 later. Go get some ... you will not regret it ... very useful in DIY.

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

Clamping for full welding the arms .... nag warp pa rin ang legs pagtapos ... ano ba yan grrr

Butt welding malakas talaga hila and warping

Would it warp the same way if you used stick instead of MIG?

Can the warp be minimized by welding a bit on one side, then a bit on the opposite side? Similar technique when tightening the studs of a car's wheel.

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

Would it warp the same way if you used stick instead of MIG?

Can the warp be minimized by welding a bit on one side, then a bit on the opposite side? Similar technique when tightening the studs of a car's wheel.

Different situations ( wip purpose ) and different parameters ( specs ) ... all affect distortion.

In this 1.5mm thick wip I weld for strength because it would carry a heavy load. As much as I could I want maximum penetration and wider weld beads thus I'm coming in hotter doing single pass runs. This alone is recipe for warping although I already tack welded before doing full welds.

What I could have done was add more clamps spaced nearer each other. Another option for me to prevent the legs warp was to clamp in such a way that I purposely bend the legs opposite the side of the expected warp. This I could accomplish by placing a piece of flat bar under the legs when it is clamped to the table.

Alll in all warping was not that damaging to my wip thus had opted for short cuts. The legs will easily straighten once these are bolted to the wall. Distortion control is tedious and time consuming.

To answer your questions ... yes partial side to opposite side welding will minimize warping. With regards to stick or mig ..... in my opinion it's not the welding process itself but rather the amount of heat ( Amps ) injected which will dictate warping. With the Miller Mig I have more options to easily control heat than I could using a stick welder.

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

I decided to bolt the legs to the floor thus I added the necessary brackets ....

Ready for finishing ....

Preparing to spray ... I will use an Iwata W-77 conventional gun with 3M paint preparation system ( PPS ) .

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

Joey .... here I'm making a jig to cut 1 1/2" x 1 1/2" square tubes using the dry cut saw .... the American fabricators build their jigs short ( same length as the saw's clamp face ) but in my case I prefer it to be longer.

Dry fit for tack welding ...

The angle bar's lower end prevents the square tube to be flush with the saw's table so I ground 1/8" out.

The mig gun business end won't fit on the corners to give a wire stick out for an effective weld ..... I had to use a stick welder to do the job.

Materials :

3/16" standard flat bar 1 1/2"
3/16" standard angle bar 1 1/2" x 1 1/2"

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

Wilcon in Pasong Tamo does not have Guilder brand on stock ... I'm going to try Boysen.

Epoxy Primer - 2 stage ... 682 pesos for 4 liters

Re: JayL's Metal Working Garage

I found that the Boysen Epoxy Primer dries a bit slower than Guilder. Maybe it's just that it's raining a bit and the weather was cool.

It lays down well and required less reducer than Guilder.

Epoxy Primer is very easy to spray.

1. Mix 3 parts Epoxy Primer and 1 Part Epoxy Catalyst
2. Stir the mixture well and let it stay for 20 to 30 min stirring occasionally from time to time
3. Thin down 1:1 up to 1:2 ( Epoxy Primer : Reducer ) depending on the tip of the gun 2.2mm ~ 1.5mm
4. Manufacturers recommend their Reducer for thinning down but I just use Arylic Lacquer Thinner which works well in my case.
5. Spray it and your done LOL

I let it sit overnight and the next day I can spray it with base coat. Either Epoxy Enamel or my favorite Acrylic Paint followed by 1 or 2 coats of Clear Coat.

That's it ... good paint for shop equipment and fixtures.

For Metal preparation :

1. I brush Bronco Rust Converter on the metals ... overnight then wire brush.
2. Fabricate
3. A little wire brushing again on the welds.
4. Wipe down with cheap acrylic thinner then Epoxy Primer

Very simple yet effective for my shop metal Wips. Blue welding table above was painted using this procedure.