Re: Work. Don't Play.

This machine is suitable for sawing wood , plastics and other similar materials. The user bears sole responsibility for damage caused by improper use.

I don't think 'and other similar materials' usually extends to ferrous metal 🙂 ... but your guess is as good as mine. Will report back if I find anything more definite.

The lower speed and dust port do seem to set the saw apart from other brands.

I noticed pag Freud metal blade baliktad lagi. The name is on the other side. Same with CS and dry cut saw.

I think what you mean is not that the Freud (or any) metal blade is different from wood blade, but that the saws are different. For both kinds of blade, when facing the label side, the rotation direction is the same, counter clockwise. But corded saws are 'right-handed' (or whatever the correct term is) whereas cordless are 'left-handed' for some reason.

Why are cordless saws and tile/fiber cement saws (like the Makita and Metabo ones) designed with a different handedness than corded circular saws, anyone know?

Re: Work. Don't Play.

@JayL

It seems that taper mounted chucks are more preferred, i dunno why, but it is so than threaded. The other part which goes to the dp or lathe is often morse taper 2. (I cruised before at owwm and a couple of machinist forums.) Also, i was never able to successfully removed the arbor from the chuck once inserted as if it was married/welded on.

Albrecht is the most expensive brand, rohm and bison are seen as dependable users, while jacobs has good to REALLY good stuff like the ball bearing 16N.

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As long as it's keyless, has 1/32"-1/2" capacity or maybe 1/16"-5/8" capacity it's going to be great.

Re: Work. Don't Play.

Wire wheel and brush consumables choosing is around 60% about balance during rotation ... some of the best available are made by Metabo.

siksik