Any of the two steps will do but I think you must apply too some wood preservatives against termites or wood borers (anay/bukbok).

thanks sir rosy

any recommendations?brand?and saan part ko sya iaapply in my steps mentioned above?

@ adzz, thanks for posting the 2 process of finishing hardwood, i'll try this on the doors and the stairs of the house we are constructing right now ... as to which one to take, i'll do some research on the internet as to how others are doing it and why and then decide which process to follow ... i'll post an update of which process i'll follow ... the furniture craftsman who made my doors (main door and kitchen) said he only uses Hudson (Sealer and Top Coat) together with Hudson Reducer (he said not to use other brand of reducer) for all the furniture he makes ... given his years of experience with his craft, i'll try it also ... hope this helps ... cheers

Boo!

hi guys,

ask ko lang po if which is the correct way of finishing wood surfaces.

my stair planks have now been roughly planed and paint has been removed;

planning to refinish it and I'm wondering if what is the correct way?

For reclaimed wood, we normally do it this way…

1. Sand rough planed wood with grit 100 sand paper followed by 180 grit to smoothen then apply Polyurethane reducer by brush to release some residue of the old paint finish. Use a sanding block to make sure that your surface remains flat and to avoid hand stroke depressions on the wood.

2. Let dry for 30 mins and then sand withe 220 grit to catch the dried crystallized residue or gummy film. Should you sense some gummy residue left repeat the process until you feel the board surface is already clean.

3. Apply wood putty filler and Sand with 220 grit again but this time to the desired smoothness.

4. Apply wood stain on the sanded wood to allow the color to soak in but make sure that you apply them carefully adjusting the tone or shade depth you want. Remember the shade varies according to the number of layers of film the wood will have and the color or shade may increase depth as you apply Polyurethane sanding sealer. Let the stain dry for about 1-2 hours then wipe left over residue and make sure its dry and ready for sealer application. Adjust and balance the color at this point and make sure the wood fillers don't stand out as much.

5. Apply Polyurethane sanding sealer about 2-3 times using a fine brush or thin mist spray so you won't damage the stain. Just lightly coat them on the first two coats putting an hour or more dying space to make sure that each coat is properly dried before the next application. The third coat is your final sanding sealer film before the top coat is applied so this is where you can judge and adjust the film smoothness and to check filler imperfections. Sand with grit 400 between each coating of sealer. Make sure to use wet sanding method by applying small spritz of water to lubricate the surface and avoid gumming on the sand paper. This will enable you to see the potential smoothness of the film between each coat. When you are satisfied with the result proceed with the top coat application.

6. Top coat application uses the same process as the sealer application only this time you must provide a longer drying time ( about 3-4 hours for Polyurethane) between each coat. Two(2) to a maximum of Three(3) coats can be applied but make sure that each coat is thinly applied and sanded smoothly between coats. Let the final coat dry for 2-3 days to make sure that the Polyurethane has hardened and cured properly so it can give you a longer film life even if the stair planks are subjected to stress based on foot traffic. Patience is a virtue and the rewards of having one yield spectacular results.

Polyurethane or any resin based coating like Epoxy or Varathane can give you a much better and more durable film compared to Lacquers and Acrylics. Though they may be harder to apply they are surely worth the results. Also keep the singular base formula system with finishes. This means the components for finishing must be of the same material base say if you use Polyurethane make sure the Sanding sealer, Topcoat and reducer are all Polyurethane based. Same goes for epoxies, lacquers and acrylics avoiding mixing different bases. A lot of local finishers use lacquer sanding sealer as a base then apply Polyurethane for their top coat w/c is a mortal sin as these chemicals tend to react against each other making the bond between coats weak and will delaminate and may have some discoloration in the future.

By the way, I am a pro-finisher and we have worked with different kinds of finishes for wood, metal and concrete these past two decades. You'd be surprised how little the industry has improved in terms of application science and methodology. A lot of finishers are still carelessly applying finishes based on how they were trained by their mentors (LOLO's, Uncles and Dad) but the system they were taught were pretty much by experimentation. The labels on the products they use even display the application method so they could be guided but problems with poor or no education persists. We must encourage these individuals to apply the correct systems to improve the lives of their clients and their business trade as well.

Cheers!

sir willy ,

thank you very much for a very enlightening post / bit of information.

i luck out on this steps since i do my sanding and planing of the planks on a very sloooooww pace hehehe singit singit lang pag walang magawa kaya up to now e on the process of prepping the planks.

i was planning to apply a lacquer sanding sealer and top it off with a polyurethane top coat which you posted as a big big NO NO , thanks for this information which i will try to follow

will post pics of the sloooow progress of this project next time

again thanks

🙂

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