I excerpted my next 2 paragraphs here from my profile intro in the Newbie section.

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My last tool purchase was last Monday (March 3). It's a used Ryobi 10" table saw [ETS-1526AL]. Very cheap, because it lacks the following parts:
blade guard assembly (including riving knife) [part# 089110507710);
table insert pack [part# 089110507600)
miter gauge assembly [part# 089110507800];
rip fence assembly [part# 089110507804];
legs [part# 089110507770]

I wish I could contact ryobispares.co.uk, but there is no contact details in their website. They have detailed parts list with corresponding price (in pounds). While I can't establish contact with them yet, I will try to make patterns of the lacking items. I've read some topics regarding this table saw. I hope, I would have a chance to visit one of the owners of this model, who may allow me to have a look (or take pictures). Better yet, if they are not using it any more (by any chance) sell the parts I needed [at surplus cost?].

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I told myself that I will not use this unit until I thoroughly read its manual and get a resolve on its safety issues because of the lacking protection parts.

Based on safety articles, for table saw, riving knife [and its blade guard] is your best "armor" against kickback. Unlike a fixed splitter [which they say, some can even go with the blade's bevel movement], RK can go with the lowering and raising of blade. I made a draft drawing of the riving knife based on the following mechanics (see photo and notes):

[IMG][/IMG]

1) at least 1/4" (6mm) lower than the highest raised position of the blade's tip
2) about 2-5mm away from the blade
3) slightly thicker than the blade's width [Ryobi blades's width = 2mm]
4) slightly thinner than the blade's kerf [Ryobi blade's kerf = 3mm]
5) sides tapered on the portion near the blade

The seller gave me a riving knife for a 10" blade (but for another brand). The item is marked and says it's width is 2mm. And it is tapered on its curved side. But I will have to modify its shape to conform with the other mechanics as stated above and the draft design I made. In case this doesn't work out fine, my other option for the type of materials are: aluminum, PVC sheet or hardwood. As I understand, I may also need to make another RK assuming I'm going
to use blade with different width.

I've already bought a clear 3/16" acrylic plastic intended for fabricating a blade guard. But when I tried to make pattern using 1/8" of that plastic, I found out that it is brittle. Not good as "armor". I will try to look for a LEXICAN, instead? (is this a brand name of a plexiglass?). For better fabrication, mas mainam yata if I can see the actual guard for this model?

Another safety item is the table insert

[IMG][/IMG]

It's thickness is 3mm. At 90 deg, fully raised, I measured the blade's left clearance, 5mm. The open, right side (where the missing insert should be), is 56.5mm from the blade . Making same clearance (5mm) on its right side at 90 deg, will result into a 13mm clearance when bevelled at 45 deg. If I make a 5 degree clearance with blade at 45 deg bevel, the insert will obstruct (touch) the spindle washer. The best clearance compromise maybe, is 2-3mm at 90 deg, resulting to about 9-10mm clearance at 45 deg; plus make a 45 deg undercut (taper, under part only of the insert) in the insert at its long side near the blade. So, the insert width will be about 53.5-54.5mm. From the parts list (#089110507034), I'll need 4 pcs of cross head sank screw, M4x8. Like the RK, type of materials option may be: aluminum, PVC sheet or hardwood.

Another problem with unit is when blade is almost or fully lowered

[IMG][URL= http://s1057.photobucket.com/user/edil-jr/media/PinoyHandyMan/loweredsawblade- notemis-alignment_zpsad60e680.jpg.html][/URL][/IMG]

left side clearances are as follows: 2mm at the back-end and 3mm at front-end. Although, when raised at its highest, both back and front-ends are 5mm, there will be some mis-alignment as you lower the blade. My take on this... I will attach a bolt with a small L-shape bracket perpendicular to the back part of the blade underguard (where the RK is bolted.This bolt will have to exit on that side of the plastic cabinet, so I can add an adjusting knot [wing or star type].

[IMG][/IMG]

Have anyone experienced this? If so, is there an easier work-around?...

Rip fence / miter gauge assemblies and legs may be fabricated later (assuming there are no stocks available).

There goes the table saw story...

Comments or suggestions will be greatly appreciated.