I am not sure if EZ cut has a tongue and groove router bit set
I know a dovetail tongue and groove can be made via a router table or a fenced freehand router. However is there a more precise way of doing it? jigs? i seem to have little luck finding anything on the net
cheerss
Re: has anyone done a dovetail tongue and groove?
do you mean a sliding dovetail? though dovetails can be used as toungue and groove, why would you want it over the standard t&g? can you post a picture of what you want done?
click my signature and it will take you there........
Re: has anyone done a dovetail tongue and groove?
Yes Timber, a sliding dovetail
well.... for the sheer novelty of it really 🙂
Re: has anyone done a dovetail tongue and groove?
Oh now I understand what you are asking Bee. No I've never seen it done in wood just to join pieces together. I don't think it is such a good idea anyway because there isn't much advantage and I imagine it would be a lot more work.
T&G is pretty easy to do Bee with standard straight bits. If you do find a Cove and Bead bit set here locally, please tell me because it would be of interest to boatbuilders. I have a set but I brought it in from the US.
Re: has anyone done a dovetail tongue and groove?
EZCUT appears to have T&G bits
http://www.router-bits-manufacturer.com/router-bits.htm
but I don't know if they are available locally. Which supplier carries the most complete selection of EZCUT bits? Is it Panda?
If for strip building, there doesn't seem to be a matching EZCUT cove/bead set suitable for that. I read somewhere that this is tricky to get just right, so not having the bits might be good as it could motivate you to bevel the edges instead?
In some T&G flooring, I saw cracked tongues and heard that in general there could be a tendency for the tongue to break if stressed. So for the same plank thickness, if doing a dovetail profile makes the neck narrower than it would normally be, then breakage of the tongue might be even more likely?
Re: has anyone done a dovetail tongue and groove?
EZCUT appears to have T&G bits
http://www.router-bits-manufacturer.com/router-bits.htm
but I don't know if they are available locally. Which supplier carries the most complete selection of EZCUT bits? Is it Panda?
wow! you found ez cut's online catalogue! i have been trying to find it so i can call panda and not go there in vain
I went to Hans tools the other day. They said they do get stocks of the T/G set but they dont have at the moment. it costs 2,800
That also gave me a chance to oogle on the makita 3612c. but thats off topic 🙂
Re: has anyone done a dovetail tongue and groove?
Oh now I understand what you are asking Bee. No I've never seen it done in wood just to join pieces together. I don't think it is such a good idea anyway because there isn't much advantage and I imagine it would be a lot more work.
T&G is pretty easy to do Bee with standard straight bits. If you do find a Cove and Bead bit set here locally, please tell me because it would be of interest to boatbuilders. I have a set but I brought it in from the US.
I was hoping i can skip making a router table for now hence a T/G set of bits would be great , tinatamad ako gumawa ng router table.
Mainly coz i dont have a proper router for it yet.. i need a 1/2 shank capable router if not i am just wasting my time making an insert plate for a 1/4 shank router that i have.
but then i guess i can always make two insert plates one for my 1/4 and one for the other so i can slot in the 1/2 shank router when i get my hands on it .... hmmm
Re: has anyone done a dovetail tongue and groove?
If for strip building, there doesn't seem to be a matching EZCUT cove/bead set suitable for that. I read somewhere that this is tricky to get just right, so not having the bits might be good as it could motivate you to bevel the edges instead?
For strip planked boats that you are going to paint, I imagine bevels are ok ... heck you can even just fill the gaps with epoxy actually. Bead and cove though come into their own when you want to finish the hull bright (varnished), or there are strong curves where the interlocking characteristic of this kind of joint becomes useful.
Yeah wood is weakest along the grain. I've experienced this with my mast a part of which simply is not up to the task.