Re: L-shape counter

FRAME

JOINT

Questions part 2:
1. Will this joinery plan work? :p Just invented it. Haha!
2. Where would you add more legs for better support of the counter top?

Thanks! Suggestions and comments will be very much appreciated. 🙂

Re: L-shape counter

the joinery is great, but doing it in actual is not really as easy as it seems, but I applaud that you have the courage to try them. yes they will work fine, though a kreg pocket hole jig will make your life simple and in less time without sacrificing strength.
do add support on the shelves especially if you plan to put heavy items on them...

Re: L-shape counter

Thanks sir Timber! Yes, i also thought that i may have a difficult time executing the joinery without some tools as we are talking about 1cm clearance here, possible yes, but more difficult.

So is it okay not to put another leg in the middle inside corner? will it support the top?

I saw the Kreg jig in the sticky and i also think it will be much easier to use. Will i be able to use it on most, if not all joinery if ever i invest in one? And how much will it cost me to order one?

Thanks! 🙂

Re: L-shape counter

Adding another leg is or a thicker edge banding (ala apron) would help the long boards to be stronger and prevent sagging. It's just a matter of need and/of taste that will help you decide.

Maybe you could share the use of your counter and what do you intend to put on thise shelves so the others could chime in as well. Most of the time, it is better to work on something based with an objective so that you could list the requirements as much as possible to avoid unforeseen steps.

Easier said than done but it's better than nothing. Welcome and good luck on your project atomicbum!

Re: L-shape counter

Thanks Sir Jarod for the tip. I'll be using the counter inside my PC shop.

So i'll be placing a monitor, kb&mouse, 2 printers, and a t-shirt heatpress on the counter top. Shelves will be used mainly for storage of copy paper and photopaper supplies, ink, and other consumables which i don't think will exceed 20 kilos per shelf.

I didn't include a 5th leg in the plan because i want free movement inside the counter. I guess i'll just add another beam to support the top.

Thanks for all your help! Hopefully i'll be able to include the Kreg jig in my tool list. Will post my WIP here in the next few days. 😉

Re: L-shape counter

Hi, i got some few questions on palo china and pressed wood. I will be using these to make the counter instead of plyboard as i got them cheap...(<P500 for everything)

As mentioned in my first post, i only have access to a circular saw and handsaw to cut these.

Here are additional questions:

1. Can i use the included 40-tooth saw blade to cut these? especially the pressed wood.

2. If not, what kind of blade do you suggest i use that will produce a cleaner cut?

3. what do you use to finish palo china and pressed wood? (varnish, etc)

4. As these are planks and boards (instead of sheets), i'll be nailing/screwing them side by side nalang. Can you suggest how to go about this po? What type of screw can i use to avoid splitting? Size? Anong sasabihin ko sa hardware? (sorry, newbie questions po, hehe)

TIA

Re: L-shape counter

As mentioned in my first post, i only have access to a circular saw and handsaw to cut these.

Here are additional questions:

1. Can i use the included 40-tooth saw blade to cut these? especially the pressed wood. -yes

2. If not, what kind of blade do you suggest i use that will produce a cleaner cut?-see above answer

3. what do you use to finish palo china and pressed wood? (varnish, etc) - you want it cheap? then sanding sealer will do, buy the boysen brand...two coats will suffice..sand lightly with 220 grit sandpaper..sanding sealer can be applied with cheap throw away brush..dries in 15-20 minutes.

4. As these are planks and boards (instead of sheets), i'll be nailing/screwing them side by side nalang. Can you suggest how to go about this po? What type of screw can i use to avoid splitting? Size? Anong sasabihin ko sa hardware? (sorry, newbie questions po, hehe) -if you screw pinewood, you can countersink it first.but you dont have a drill so...ipako mo na lang.

btw, your stash came cheap!

TIA
-no prob.

PS:

sanding sealer 1 quart around 150p; sandpaper 9-18 pesos/sheet; cheap brush 25p (1"), 30p (1.5"), 2" (35p), pako (i dont use pako nowadays but should be 70p per kilo for 1"Finishing...cheaper in bigger size especially the common nail.

Re: L-shape counter

ah..you have a drill..so in that case, i suggest you make use of gypsum scews..bahala ka nasa size..what's d dimension ba nung pine wood planks mo?

gypsum screws are fine for pine.
😉

Re: L-shape counter

As mentioned in my first post, i only have access to a circular saw and handsaw to cut these.

Here are additional questions:

1. Can i use the included 40-tooth saw blade to cut these? especially the pressed wood. -yes

2. If not, what kind of blade do you suggest i use that will produce a cleaner cut?-see above answer

3. what do you use to finish palo china and pressed wood? (varnish, etc) - you want it cheap? then sanding sealer will do, buy the boysen brand...two coats will suffice..sand lightly with 220 grit sandpaper..sanding sealer can be applied with cheap throw away brush..dries in 15-20 minutes.

4. As these are planks and boards (instead of sheets), i'll be nailing/screwing them side by side nalang. Can you suggest how to go about this po? What type of screw can i use to avoid splitting? Size? Anong sasabihin ko sa hardware? (sorry, newbie questions po, hehe) -if you screw pinewood, you can countersink it first.but you dont have a drill so...ipako mo na lang.

btw, your stash came cheap!

TIA
-no prob.

PS:

sanding sealer 1 quart around 150p; sandpaper 9-18 pesos/sheet; cheap brush 25p (1"), 30p (1.5"), 2" (35p), pako (i dont use pako nowadays but should be 70p per kilo for 1"Finishing...cheaper in bigger size especially the common nail.

This is what a quality response should be! Kudos to you Doc! 😎

Re: L-shape counter

ah..you have a drill..so in that case, i suggest you make use of gypsum scews..bahala ka nasa size..what's d dimension ba nung pine wood planks mo?

The planks are 120x17x3cm and the wafer boards are 2'x4'.

Thanks sir violaine! As always, i know the masters here in PHM give the best advice!

And since i saved so much on wood, i now have a budget for a 2nd hand sander, i searched around sulit and found random orbital sanders (around 1.5-2K) and palm sanders (<1K). I'm eyeing the ROS for this application as well as for future use. Is it ok to buy ROS 2nd hand or bnew?

Btw, when do you suggest i sand the planks? before or after assembly? 🙂

Re: L-shape counter

the planks are too rough for the ROS job..plane it first (so you need a an electric planer..hehe...otherwise, that pine salvaged from pallets is very soft you need to have a real sharp handplane blades!)..

as much as possible, i dont want to buy 2nd hand machines...you know..machine is composed of gears, armatures with windings, carbon brush etc...and it gets worn out...gusto ko ako ang una gagamit.

this is not the case with hand tools..kahit 4th hand pa ok lang basta the best and quality like the old marples handplanes made in england circa 1970's.

pero its up to you...minsan chambahan din eh...you just have to know basic things before buying 2nd hand tools especially electrically operated.

Re: L-shape counter

well said brader... 😉