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Main entry door....

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(@zepol)
Posts: 317
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@willy
thanks for the edifying post!
one question though, if and when your finishes finally succumb to the elements, say in 20 years time. will you have to strip down to the epoxy to refinish the door?

I guess the comments above have dealt with the epoxy + clear coating (poly or spar varnish) sufficiently.

IF you want a bright finish (i.e. clear finish), then you will never get a 100% sunblock. My suggestion to use epoxy was for waterproofing. You can then use whatever (semi) clear coating you wanted in the first place that has the max UV protection available.

FYI, I am building a 22-23ft sailboat in bright finish.

i'm curious though, what topcoat do you use on your sailboat?.
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Posted : 08/03/2012 7:02 am
(@willyfernando)
Posts: 799
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Re: Main entry door....

@Timber715

Brader, Spar urethane is also one of the best finishes. in fact it was one of my best choices before but unfortunately gloss is the only variety they have in terms of sheen. They also have no Urethane Stains, Flattening agents and other essential support for adjustments locally thats why we opted to use Polyurethane instead. I even used Varathane for floor finishes in the past. The earliest time I've used SADOLIN products was in 1996 till 2000. Our research, like I said, is on going. The variety of finishes required by our clients also expand w/in a certain span of time due to fierce competition so we try to give them as many options as possible. I have about 14 different Polyurethane formulas to date and the demand for variety is still growing in terms of Sheen, color and use or application (outdoor, indoor, marine, etc.). I also have water-based Lacquers for indoor use for those who are allergic or reactive to solvents.:weathermanf3::weathermanf2:

@Zepol

As I've said, the current range of our formulas are adaptive only for the actual climate conditions + give a about 20% tolerance in terms of Temperature and Precipitation/Humidity factoring. We need to be able to adapt in the future changes in the film so we designed it to accept minor stripping or corrections as well as re-coating and coloring. For the moment what seems to be important for our clients is the assurance that we can do something w/ the film, restoration and maintenance wise to protect their main investment w/c is the wood.

 
Posted : 08/03/2012 9:58 am
(@balarila)
Posts: 1368
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i'm curious though, what topcoat do you use on your sailboat?.
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Haven't topped mine yet. But I know a lot of boatbuilders using Sadolin Yacht.
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Posted : 08/03/2012 10:51 am
(@zepol)
Posts: 317
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Re: Main entry door....

@willy

strippable epoxy? nice.
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Posted : 08/03/2012 11:34 am
(@willyfernando)
Posts: 799
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Re: Main entry door....

@willy

strippable epoxy? nice.
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Not necessarily stripping, but when epoxy coated wood in natural clear finish Poly fades we can apply colorants to restore the finish closest to the original. When seams and cracks are covered by epoxy seal plus water tightness is achieved the only problem you are most likely to encounter is color fading. Now thats an easier fix than stripping and repeating the entire process of finishing.

 
Posted : 08/03/2012 11:52 am
(@jonathanscruz68)
Posts: 1492
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Re: Main entry door....

Spar urethane is also one of the best finishes. in fact it was one of my best choices before but unfortunately gloss is the only variety they have in terms of sheen. They also have no Urethane Stains, Flattening agents and other essential support for adjustments locally thats why we opted to use Polyurethane instead. I even used Varathane for floor finishes in the past. The earliest time I've used SADOLIN products was in 1996 till 2000. Our research, like I said, is on going. The variety of finishes required by our clients also expand w/in a certain span of time due to fierce competition so we try to give them as many options as possible. I have about 14 different Polyurethane formulas to date and the demand for variety is still growing in terms of Sheen, color and use or application (outdoor, indoor, marine, etc.)

this i want to see and learn ...:book:

philippines i think has one of the most harshes climate.
when it rain, it really pours...
in summer time, it really heats up ...
so choosing on those outdoor finishes is very critical...

 
Posted : 10/03/2012 3:27 pm
(@zepol)
Posts: 317
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Re: Main entry door....

at least we don't have freeze-thaw cycles.
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Posted : 10/03/2012 5:11 pm
(@nomastequila)
Posts: 37
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Re: Main entry door....

regarding epoxy, ace stocks small amounts of pioneer two part epoxy, price seems reasonable. I havent been on the last week, will be starting up the door this weekend, i have purchased bronco ngr penetrating stain, ace sanding sealer, and polyurethane clear gloss. will take photos and post them before. Am considering the pioneer epoxy rather than the polyurethane, from what i read on internet urethane is preferred to polyurethane, but the suggestion of epoxy rings true as for rain protection. the door will be exposed to some rain, but if i convince the wifey to leave the tree out front it will shield it from most of the harshest, and we are doing an exposed beam trellice (sp?) as a covering for the door, exposed beams will be made of steel and painted.

 
Posted : 15/03/2012 5:39 am
(@zepol)
Posts: 317
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Re: Main entry door....

@nomas

better check if the pioneer two part epoxy's similar to the high tech stuff of willy.

iirc, pioneer epoxy's opaque and has no uv blocker.
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Posted : 15/03/2012 6:09 am
(@willyfernando)
Posts: 799
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Re: Main entry door....

regarding epoxy, ace stocks small amounts of pioneer two part epoxy, price seems reasonable. I havent been on the last week, will be starting up the door this weekend, i have purchased bronco ngr penetrating stain, ace sanding sealer, and polyurethane clear gloss. will take photos and post them before. Am considering the pioneer epoxy rather than the polyurethane, from what i read on internet urethane is preferred to polyurethane, but the suggestion of epoxy rings true as for rain protection. the door will be exposed to some rain, but if i convince the wifey to leave the tree out front it will shield it from most of the harshest, and we are doing an exposed beam trellice (sp?) as a covering for the door, exposed beams will be made of steel and painted.

If Sheen is not an issue then I am in agreement w/ Urethane as a good choice for your topcoat. Please take note of the term Marine grade epoxy so you won't make a mistake in your purchase. Pioneer is a well known brand but at the current rate of climate temperature increase I just don't know how they have made adjustments to cope w/ such rapid changes. This is why I prefer to work w/ small manufacturers as they can easily revise formulations due to limited production and distribution orders.

 
Posted : 15/03/2012 6:27 am
(@nomastequila)
Posts: 37
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Topic starter
 

Re: Main entry door....

ok, the door on its side is the 1m main entry door with 1 inch wide reflective glass inserts, the standing door will be the master bedroom entry door am thinking this will be simply treated with linseed oil or perhaps something light. Thanks for all the advice and helpful hints.

 
Posted : 17/03/2012 9:20 pm
(@balarila)
Posts: 1368
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Re: Main entry door....

@nomastequila

I like your "thirsty handle". I hope you have not gone and bought the Pioneer Epoxy yet. Try Polymer Products first. That's at Joe Borris street just off C5. The street is on the right if you are driving down (heading north) from the Pasig River bridge/interchange coming from Fort Boni.

They sell the epoxy resin in two parts (looks like hotcake syrup) which you mix to apply for a near-clear finish. I know of many boatbuilders who use their products so it should work well for you as well.

Try to search more about epoxy in this forum and also learn about how it is applied. It is easy but requires some techniques, otherwise, you may waste a lot of epoxy. You will also need to protect yourself as some people develop severe allergies on the chemical.

BTW, I have neither personal nor financial interest on either Pioneer or Polymer Products so you may be assured my suggestion is unbiased.

@willyfernando
When I finish my boat's hull, in about a month, I will sheathe it in epoxy. Would like to try out your brews. Hope we get to chat about it next time I drop in.
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Posted : 18/03/2012 8:54 am
(@jonathanscruz68)
Posts: 1492
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Re: Main entry door....

They sell the epoxy resin in two parts (looks like hotcake syrup) which you mix to apply for a near-clear finish. I know of many boatbuilders who use their products so it should work well for you as well.

Try to search more about epoxy in this forum and also learn about how it is applied. It is easy but requires some techniques, otherwise, you may waste a lot of epoxy.

When I finish my boat's hull, in about a month, I will sheathe it in epoxy.
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epoxy eb ba ulit ?

 
Posted : 18/03/2012 3:54 pm
(@willyfernando)
Posts: 799
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Re: Main entry door....

@willyfernando
When I finish my boat's hull, in about a month, I will sheathe it in epoxy. Would like to try out your brews. Hope we get to chat about it next time I drop in.

@Ding

By all means Brader, just text me and will prep a batch for you.

 
Posted : 18/03/2012 11:19 pm
(@balarila)
Posts: 1368
Noble Member
 

epoxy eb ba ulit ?

I'd be happy to host another one. But it won't be for the sheathing of my hull. That's a rather big and fairly complex process I will have to do alone starting at dawn. Reason is that I have to work fast before the epoxy cures on me. I'll also do it at the coolest part of the day so the epoxy won't cure too fast.

Sorry...a bit OT.
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Posted : 19/03/2012 5:46 am
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