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table saw parts

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(@rsegador)
Posts: 11
Active Member
Topic starter
 

hi good pm to all. i've been lurking around this forum trying to pickup ideas from this post and that.

i am a committed diy'er and i prefer to build things myself. i have a house under construction that is almost complete na parang plaza ngayon for lack of furniture. hard wood is not exactly a problem procuring in our place, so i thought why not fabricate them from locally sourced materials. i already have a power planer, electric drill, router and router bit set and an odd collection of hand tools. what i lack is a table saw which i prefer to fabricate as well. purchasing a good quality unit is out of the question for lack of budget, and i doubt the hand held circular saw (i already had one of those) would be up to the job ripping 5" x 6" x 72" narra and langka pieces. i know where to get the electric motor, the pulley and the belt. but i have no idea where to source the arbor and bearing pack assembly.

any help and suggestions would be greatly appreciated.

regards

 
Posted : 04/09/2013 6:48 pm
(@rsegador)
Posts: 11
Active Member
Topic starter
 

Re: table saw parts

sorry, i didn't realise that i have been a bit rude by jumping in to the forum without introducing myself.

i am serafin segador, raffy to my friends and colleagues, a programmer by profession, specialising in financial applications, and do satellite tv installations on the side. i live in pasay city, work in makati city, and spend most weekends in bicol where my family stays.

i am into diy metal fabrication if i feel there is a need to, and now in woodworking because i feel i must. i am also into agriculture where i am trying my hands in organic farming.

i am not sure if i can contribute anything of value to the forum, but i am sure there is a lot a can learn by joining.

regards

raffy segador

 
Posted : 04/09/2013 8:57 pm
rosy
 rosy
(@rosy)
Posts: 4307
Member
 

Re: table saw parts

Hey raffy,

First of all, WELCOME to the community but may I request that you re post this introduction of yours in the Member Introductions, its just below the Gazebo Forum if you will scroll down the PHM index page so you can be formally welcomed by other members !!!

Then after doing so, I will delete my post and probably yours too, to give way for other members to give their response to your query, just trying to keep this thread in order and hope you understand.

Thanks,

rosy

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YAMATO 200 amp DC Inverter IGBT Welder
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HOBART and ESAB Welding Helmets
cloned STIHLs
MS 044 chainsaw
MS 070 chainsaw

 
Posted : 04/09/2013 9:22 pm
(@willyfernando)
Posts: 799
Prominent Member
 

Re: table saw parts

Hi Raffy,

Welcome to PHM. You are a busy fellow aren't you, being a programmer, financial planner and TVSAT installer. I guess you are restless like most of us adding as much skills as we can apart from our daily grind. To get you started let me steer you in the direction of Manila in the area of T. Alonzo where you will find a lot of stores selling by assembly the Table saw Shafting, Flanges, locknut, pulley and bearings or pillow block altogether. Get a double pulley if you can to partner with at least 3HP-5HP electric motor if you are cutting green lumber. While you're there, scout for a good Ripping and Cross cut blade for your saw. If you intend to cut 5" thick flitches then a 12"-14" diameter is your best choice. The arbor size for blades of this diameter usually fall in the 1"-30mm category and the number of teeth should be no less than 40 Teeth Carbide tipped. Blades with 80-100 teeth are good for cross cutting and it helps if you get a 15 degrees Alternate Top Bevel (ATB). If the arbor of the shafting is smaller than the blade hole then get a ring insert to match. Some blades have multiple inserts included in their package like Vermont America, IRWIN,etc. Some sash operators use a longer belt length to reduce stress on the motor during start up or when the blade binds due to overheating the lengthy belt provides a safe slack that prevents the motor from seizing or stopping. The most tricky part with this type of saw is the blade rise adjustment. Some people make their table top adjustable but getting it flat, stable and leveled is another thing. If you are able to make it work it will give you satisfactory/gratifying results much like I did with my first assembled unit. Good luck!

 
Posted : 04/09/2013 9:51 pm
(@rsegador)
Posts: 11
Active Member
Topic starter
 

Re: table saw parts

hi willy,

thanks for the very detailed and very informative reply.

you are right. i really enjoy getting busy and building things with my hands. it gives very welcome break from the daily grind, and it is therapeutic too.

i'm off to binondo before the end of the week and see what i can find there. this is going to be a slow build as it may still take some time for the wood flitches to become sufficiently dry. hard wood of adequate width and thickness are hard to come by and it would be a shame to see the wood planks getting warped and twisted as they dry if cut before they are ready.

again thanks for the help, and best regards.

raffy

 
Posted : 04/09/2013 10:40 pm
(@willyfernando)
Posts: 799
Prominent Member
 

Re: table saw parts

Pre-cut wood can still be season dried efficiently. There are certain techniques in Air drying that may work in the absence of a kiln dryer. Japanese wood workers are very knowledgeable with this method. Try visiting some japanese websites that specialize in seasoned dried wood.

 
Posted : 07/09/2013 7:25 pm
(@canlooc_canupao)
Posts: 11
Active Member
 

Re: table saw parts

hi sir willy, kindly share some techniques on how to properly season a 1"x6"x6' planks from a freshly cut hard wood like an akle wood? molave woods are not a problem to season but i'm not familiar with other hardwood like akle.

 
Posted : 01/10/2013 8:09 pm
(@willyfernando)
Posts: 799
Prominent Member
 

Re: table saw parts

hi sir willy, kindly share some techniques on how to properly season a 1"x6"x6' planks from a freshly cut hard wood like an akle wood? molave woods are not a problem to season but i'm not familiar with other hardwood like akle.

Like most hardwood, the technique in air drying is to use spacers or sticks in between stacks of flitches high enough (1"-2") to allow air to pass gently through the spaces allowing slow drying to take place. It is more of conditioning slowly to allow wood to let water move from the center core towards the outer part by capillary action. This way the wood tissues are able to retain their elasticity and strength even if their water content has been reduced. Air dry them in a covered/roofed area but not to damp or too confined and at least with enough ventilation for the process to happen. The length of time could range from 6-months to as long as 3 years depending on the wood's starting MC, wood density, timing or start period of drying(summer,etc.), age of the wood and type of species.

 
Posted : 02/10/2013 12:18 am
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