Re: DIY Bandsaw
ARQ in T. Alonzo sells this conveyor belt for P30 per foot. Will check this weekend at Fernando Auto Supply in Concepcion. 🙂
Salamat sa mga tip.
Marami pa nyan sa Marikina. Try SYGAL INTERNATIONAL SALES in JP.Rizal near the marikina bridge. A lot of the auto supplies still sell them.
Thank you Sir, ikutan ko bukas lahat lalo yung iron wheels.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
I remember the conveyor belts are available in auto supplies sold as KOREA as it is locally known. My 1985 locally made bandsaw still sports those tires. The only thing is it's very hard to control the blade from wandering given the blade guides and all. During the alignment procedure i used thread lockers like LOCTITE to prevent vibration from screwing with the adjustments. It did help a lot but i guess my wheel shafting must be due for replacement already.
Oh wow, this information is GOLDEN. When i bought a bandsaw, an old timer who worked in mindanao's timber industry told me the same thing. "KOREA." At first i didn't believe him (because he also recommended using diesel fuel as blade lubricant! thought he was nuts) but that's how it was done in our shores.
Both tires do need to be "crowned" concentric to the wheel with a 5 - 9 degree slant (interestingly, that's the angle of dovetail pins isn't it?) The people in owwm.org have cobbled up a myriad of ways of achieving it, just depends on what tools the person has in his disposal. As long as one makes a fixture that's rigid and repeatable, achieving perfection is surprisingly easy.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pompJjHE6I (Bad lighting, but the gist is I had a sanding attachment on the chuck, which sands the rubber tire on the wheel, the "travel" of the quill "drills" was limited to a depth, and a dial indicator shows that the result didn't have "lumps".)
Concentricity is important (just regurgitating the wisdom of veterans at owwm.org) for smoothness, tracking, and even blade tension- (if we exaggerate and think of the wheel as oblonged, the blade will be more stretched when it reaches the height of the lump, and spring back when it goes to the short area.)
...More power to everyone's projects =).
Re: DIY Bandsaw
Bandsaw update:
After trimming each frame I drilled perpinduclar holes so I can insert long bolts and nuts to secure the layers after gluing.
test fitting the first two frames.
Planed them with no. 4 before face-gluing the plywoods.
and there it is the actual bandsaw frame. Very tough, very heavy.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
more WIP pics:
.
..to be continued.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
WIP pictures on the slow progress of this band saw build.
Parts are almost complete waiting to be assembled.
The block that holds the 3/4" shaft with the front bearing already installed.
dryfitting it into the square hole. The holes on the frame were already plugged with customized dowels to hide the screws.
pillow blocks and the customized MS plate.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
.
showing here the pulley, shaft, and the 3/4" threaded rod for tension adjustment.
so far everything falls on their right places.
...to be continued.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
Very nice!!!
Would you think that i could get away with 5 layers of 18cm SOB 3 i mean 90cm thickness?
With what you will make your weels?
Re: DIY Bandsaw
I have no idea what SOB means so you need to assess it by yourself.
My wheels will be made of two layers of 19mm HDF (High Density Fiber) boards so final thickness of each wheel will be 38 mm (1.5").
Your idea of putting the knob above the block will pose some construction problem when you insert the threaded rod inside the block, there is very little space to work with. Currently I'm already working on the whole tensioner assembly and hopefully will show the whole thing by this weekend (working only on weeknights and weekends).
Thanks.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
Nice joey.
So it is load-bearing construction grade plywood, could be suitable for dimitris plan but surface is very rough. It will require a lot of putty if I plan to finish it with paint.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
I think he means OSB.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Oriented_strand_board
Whoops...damn it auto correction!
Yes Joey, thanks for the correction.
Armand have you measured the bending of the frame with putting your weigh on top of the up wheel mount with a thickness gauge?
I really think that it will be strong but could please make a strength test?
Did you change something on from your first frame plan or left it that way?
Re: DIY Bandsaw
Nice joey.
So it is load-bearing construction grade plywood, could be suitable for dimitris plan but surface is very rough. It will require a lot of putty if I plan to finish it with paint.
My though is that OSB is 29 euro for an 125x250 cm board and the cheapest plywood is 45 euro.
People say that the only problem with OSB is moisture, if moisture "comes" in my workshop the band saw would not be my only problem..;)
Re: DIY Bandsaw
Whoops...damn it auto correction!
Yes Joey, thanks for the correction.
Armand have you measured the bending of the frame with putting your weigh on top of the up wheel mount with a thickness gauge?
I really think that it will be strong but could please make a strength test?
Did you change something on from your first frame plan or left it that way?
@dimitris
When the frame was finished I sit on top of it but I didn't measure the difference coz i was too confident of its strength. Yes sure I will do that this weekend with my son to measure if there will be difference on the height if i put my whole weight on it.
Yes i reduced the vertical arm by two inches to address that strength issure but I added that two inches to the base.
If you pursue the plan of putting the knob above the block I suggest you make the block and the square hole a liitle more wider to make room for the threaded rod, I agree it is doable.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
@dimitris
When the frame was finished I sit on top of it but I didn't measure the difference coz i was too confident of its strength. Yes sure I will do that this weekend with my son to measure if there will be difference on the height if i put my whole weight on it.
Yes i reduced the vertical arm by two inches to address that strength issure but I added that two inches to the base.
If you pursue the plan of putting the knob above the block I suggest you make the block and the square hole a liitle more wider to make room for the threaded rod, I agree it is doable.
What is your final resawing height, with the table on of course.
I thinks your approach of making the frame is far more cleaver and easy than cutting and cluing multiple timber.I will deffinatly go with this way as long as i see your results, i want to be on the safe side 😀
Are you planning to make turions for your table on you will stay with a flat one?
