Re: DIY Bandsaw
Hey...that's tha DIY colour!!!
Why you chouse to go with the moving sfaft instead of a putting the bearings only on the wheels and the shaft beign steady to the frame?
you mean why not the Matthias Wandel's way. There are several things that i have considered for having a rotating shaft instead the wheel rotating on the steady shaft.
1. If the wheel is rotating on the shaft, you will have to fabricate two wooden flanges to house two bearings, the total width of the two wooden flanges and the wheel and the lock nut will be very wide. This means the distance of the blade against the body will also be too long and this will also entail another problem for me when making the wooden blade guide.
2. Once you fixed the shaft of the upper wheel to the body it will be hard to align its axis with the lower wheel. The four bolts on my pillow blocks can easily be unscrewed for that necessary adjustments.
3. Wobble is almost zero or very minimal with iron flanges.
You will notice that I cut away the center of the of the outer layer on the wheel so I can minimize the total thickness when all the components are put together. The iron flanges are far more rigid than the wooden versions and i dont have to worry on changing the bearings on the wheel when they wear out which will require dismantling the glued wooden flanges.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
you mean why not the Matthias Wandel's way. There are several things that i have considered for having a rotating shaft instead the wheel rotating on the steady shaft.
1. If the wheel is rotating on the shaft, you will have to fabricate two wooden flanges to house two bearings, the total width of the two wooden flanges and the wheel and the lock nut will be very wide. This means the distance of the blade against the body will also be too long and this will also entail another problem for me when making the wooden blade guide.
2. Once you fixed the shaft of the upper wheel to the body it will be hard to align its axis with the lower wheel. The four bolts on my pillow blocks can easily be unscrewed for that necessary adjustments.
3. Wobble is almost zero or very minimal with iron flanges.You will notice that I cut away the center of the of the outer layer on the wheel so I can minimize the total thickness when all the components are put together. The iron flanges are far more rigid than the wooden versions and i dont have to worry on changing the bearings on the wheel when they wear out which will require dismantling the glued wooden flanges.
That's very nice planning Armand, i think i will go with your way.
The only problem i have is that i need to make treads on the shaft for the wheel to be stablelized.
How will you face the unscrewing problems?Is the thread oposite the movement of the wheel?
How did you cut the wheel?The first layer is full and the second hollow?
Re: DIY Bandsaw
several ways to lock the nut to the thread.
1. Jam two nuts to prevent from unscrewing.
2. Using nylock, a nut with plastic collar.
3. And the best is using slotted nut with a split pin.
I cut the inner circle using jigsaw followed by router.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
I have started mine bandsaw based on your plan, more or less..
Here i give you some credits www.Luthier.gr
Re: DIY Bandsaw
wow exact copy..its good that you were able to get the dimensions from the sketchup plan i sent you. You're doing it fast...you may overtake me in due time.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
here are some update pics of this build..
The upper blade guide made of yakal wood and iron wood (kamagong) as guide blocks. The whole assembly is attached to the stainless square tube as the guide post.
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and this is the lower guide which is identical to the upper guide.
Been testing it and so far running smoothly.
to be continued...
Re: DIY Bandsaw
@dimitris
wow exact copy..its good that you were able to get the dimensions from the sketchup plan i sent you. You're doing it fast...you may overtake me in due time.
Diamentions due to a printer problem, may not be the same.
The wheels are 40cm and I am trying a different way for the tension mechanism.
As for the body frame Yes, is a copycat :D!
I think osb is strong enough for the frame and I don't think that I can find something cheaper then that!
Re: DIY Bandsaw
here are some update pics of this build..
The upper blade guide made of yakal wood and iron wood (kamagong) as guide blocks. The whole assembly is attached to the stainless square tube as the guide post.
and this is the lower guide which is identical to the upper guide.
Been testing it and so far running smoothly.
Bro Armand,
On the subject of guide block assembly, why didn't you use metal bars for the guide holders? Is there a slot on the kamagong so you may be able to adjust the guide clearance should the blade wane or if they wear out at least you can keep them tight again? I used bearings instead of wood blocks for my blade guide and they seem to run smoother on account of them rolling freely or with lesser friction/resistance, care to test them on yours? :goodluck:
Re: DIY Bandsaw
@willyfernando:
The guide holders are just prototypes of the real ones that I intend to be fabricated by a welder. I know I will have difficulty explaining to the welder the whole assembly and the pinpointing the exact location of the holes. I may have to cut the metal bars by myself, bore the holes and just leave the welding job to them. I plan to do this when the whole machine is finally finished.
Sir the slots are in the guide holder behind those blocks, I hope they function just the same if the slots are on the guide blocks. If the blocks wear out, I can just rotate them so the other sides face the blade sides. But I see now the problem with blocks, they tend to tilt during adjustments.
I will try using bearings as guide once the whole holder assembly are converted into metal, been watching Carter blade guides in youtube and seems they run quiter and produce good results as you mentoned. Thank you Sir.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
@willyfernando:
I see now the problem with blocks, they tend to tilt during adjustments.
I will try using bearings as guide once the whole holder assembly are converted into metal, been watching Carter blade guides in youtube and seems they run quiter and produce good results as you mentoned. Thank you Sir.
My point exactly. The square blocks tend to tilt thereby making heavy contact with the blade not just during setting but even in operation. The square guides are quite an upkeep and the repetitive task of reseting guide blocks are nuisance. Bearings though, being metal, glides together within the direction of the blade. Just use a good thread lock like Loctite Threadlock when you set the bearing and tighten the fasteners.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
... repetitive task of resetting guide blocks are nuisance.
...this made me think while I'm on my way home.
Luckily the very first auto supply shop outside my workplace has this last four pieces of bearings.
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and installed them right away after dinner.
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it now runs a lot quieter than using wooden blocks. I have also started cutting my gmelina woods for the cover as seen in the last photo.
Re: DIY Bandsaw
Hi everyone, Armand this is the way i did the tensioning mechanism.
It's soo....soo simple!
When to tight the bolt the wood goes down.
The bolt is not fixed and the shaft goes only in the first section of the wood cube.
The two others are for fixing the saft for the wheel.
Because the force is in the middle of the upper section of the cube it works realy smooth, i will mount the shaft and wheel an shall we see.
The hole to the frame is only to remove the screw from the frame.If i stay with this i think i'll just make a dowel to close that.
Nice dimitris, glad that you are progressing on this build.
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Hopefully the sun will come out tomorrow so i can finish painting the cover. Then table is next.
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Re: DIY Bandsaw
Hopefully the sun will come out tomorrow so i can finish painting the cover. Then table is next.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk.
The white part is a cover that opens?
It will be nice to have a 360 view so I could steal some ideas!
Looks very good though!
