Re: jet jts10 first impressions

bee,
you can use a 1/2" thick material and rabbet the sides till it reaches the desired depth for it to be flush on the top. that way, the center is thick and can absord more weight on it without flexing(which could be dangerous if it does flex).

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

Here is the zero clearance insert i did with a 1/4 ply. I will junk this (practice) and use a 1/2 ply as Timber suggest. Now why didnt i think of rabbeting...

Incc, Adding shims is almost too much of trial and error since the plastic insert isnt uniformly thick throughout... a piece of junk really. i would have to taper a shim just for that and its just too much work.

Timber, Here is the miter sled foot

i am more open to making a hard wood sled foot thingy.. since i will be making a sled jig and a 45 degree miter jig.

While making the zero clearance insert there is another problem i found. The arbor is not perfectly squared. so when it spins on its axis there is a "wobble effect" (for the lack of a better term).

So far i am still pretty patient since i dont need it yet...

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

also there is alot of play on the sled to do the dimple fix on the miter gauge foot

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

Thanks Bee.

The play in the slot can easily compensated for by pushing the sled slightly to the left or right. The idea is to be using only one edge of the slot as the reference. This is fine since the cutting force of the blade is downward and/or towards you.

Looks like you're having a lot of fun with your saw. Please just don't put safety behind your enthusiasm.

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

i will now explain the wobble of the blade and iam not sure if it really matters or not

attached is a mock picture of how the saw plays when running. The saw is firmly fixed on the arbor and when not in use the arbor has no play. Hence the arbor base may not be trully square and i have to do something about it. Or maybe not. Or Does it really matter?

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

Absolutely it matters! The blade should be perfectly parallel to the guide slots. Usually there is a means to adjust this through the bolts that connect saw assembly to the table top.

You may also have to adjust the fence. It must be true to the blade both horizontally and vertically.

Bee if the blade is not perfectly parallel that is a perfect recipe for the blade to bind and cause a backlash. Please adjust it before you go any further.

By the way, if you need help adjusting it, take pictures of the saw assembly and how it is mounted so we can help.

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

This truly is an exercise in patience hahahahahah.

i still cringe knowing for a fact that a dewalt 745 is only 20,000 pesos equivalent in the US

will post the assembly tomorrow. Good thing the thing doesnt break backs 🙂

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

the table saw is a direct drive system. so no belts. Apparently belt driven saws are better. and EASIER to adjust.... this table saw better not be a melon. i mean lemon.

Will post pics maybe tonight. Sigh..... and Jet is part of a Swiss conglomerate.

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

This truly is an exercise in patience hahahahahah.

i still cringe knowing for a fact that a dewalt 745 is only 20,000 pesos equivalent in the US

will post the assembly tomorrow. Good thing the thing doesnt break backs 🙂

that is the reason why Jay and I opted to get a better saw, but was willing to wait.
anyway, just like Incc said, having the blade parallel to the miter slots is VITAL. from there everything that moves and can be moved should be parallel as well. Kickback is often caused by pinching at the back portion of the blade and the fence, very dangerous. I have my fence offset of wider by about 0.1mm at the rear portion just to avoid this.
I did adjust everything on my Bosch TS just to be sure I know where I'm at and that they are where they need to be.
as for the miter gauge, you can use an aluminum tape to close or minimize the gap on the slot or you can drill a hole near both ends of the gauge and thread a tapered screw so as to open it from the center. Since you have a miter gauge with a taper, you cannot thread a screw across like what I did on mine. It makes it adjustable.
We have heard lots of things about the saw, some good some bad and we cannot make any recommendation on it.
for what its worth, if it does what it was intended for it, and the cost is minimal it should be worth it... initially 🙂 ... until you look for an upgrade...
goodluck on it bee...

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

Well look at it this way: you'll not give up your handsaws as easily. I really don't need precision for the work I do but mostly because it is a pain in the butt to setup my table saw I only use it probably 50% or less of the time, most of the time I use hand tools.

Don't worry Bee I'm pretty sure you'll get your money's worth.

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

Here is the pick of the assembly. Pardon the high resolution, I wanted you guys to see everything

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

Cutting seems fine. but i havent used thick stocks. I am actually quite paranoid with the binding and having the wood flip to my face....

The 1/4 ply seems to be actually quite flush. Anyway i also notice that even when the blade is perfectly 90 degrees (on one side of the table.. the table aint square!!!!!!) when it rises its mide portion of the blade body will scrape the zero clearance insert (jeez) even when i over tilt the blade in order to cut a larger kerf (so its actually negative 2-3 degrees) once raised it will hit the kerf it just cut... WEIRD! It may mean the rod or whatever it is that raises it up isnt squared on either!...

IF sleds work on this thing... i will be very happy.

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

Bee please take picture from the top without the table top attached. Also, please post oa picture of the bottom of the table top showing the power unit housing attachment points.

From pictures, it looks like the saw is solidly constructed. I see a lot of castings. The low end MIC saws have pressed metal instead of castings. The adjustment mechanism seems very solid with lead screws nonetheless, some use slides with friction locks. Slides are quicker to adjust for sure but would wear down sooner I imagine.

Am I correct that you did not assemble the power unit? You just attached the table top, etc.

Re: jet jts10 first impressions

I cant disassemble the table top 🙁 the plate with four screws on the eight pic. its impossible to unscrew without a snake attchment to a drill. And even with that. those screws are so SOFT and bolted in so tight..The two screws that i could reach i tried to unscrew. but it wasnt going anywhere and was already wearing off the groove.

Yes the power unit was not assembled and the table top was already pre assembled.

I will try to photo the power unit attachment.