Re: jointer plane question

wow, thats a very wide planer. yung Makita na 12 inch i think is nasa 35k, tapos i think yung nakita ko na makita na wide is only 16 inches. wild guess ko is if you find something of the 22 inch baka it will cost 60k up.

Re: jointer plane question

Hi Rolly, you're probably referring to the Stanley # 7 jointer plane. Its never been sold here and I think its been discontinued by Stanley. I got mine back around 1997. Best bet you'll find it on ebay in the U.S.or U.K. If you have relatives there, see if they can get it for you.

Re: jointer plane question

yep, ernie/ workbench, im referring to that stanley hand plane, its 22 inches long.

so no major concerns if i use the stanley # 4 instead for jointing?

Re: jointer plane question

the Stanley No. 7 IS available locally... I got mine about two years or less ago.
a no. 4 could replace the jointer handplane, but it is much easier to get an accurate result with a no. 7. kasi if the wood has a curve or twist, the shorter no.4 will only follow the dip, while the no. 7 being longer will skip the dip and plane the high points, in which case, the ends.
I don't remember the price anymore, but it was around Php3.5K back then.

Re: jointer plane question

and while you're at it, try to get one of these...


kaya lang di available locally. hehehehe
a good handplane is no good if you can't sharpen you blades properly...

Re: jointer plane question

yes, it's that one timber. where did you buy it? thanks

Re: jointer plane question

in Binondo area. it was te last one available then. but sure now if they have it on stock na...will check when I pass by that area.

Re: jointer plane question

ahh.. sorry, hand planer pala. i got excited kasi kala ko its one of those planer thicknesser oe planer jointer things. il be getting a planner thicknesse set up maybe next week. got lucky na a friend of mine is selling his for 40k. US brand with a 7hp motor.

i would like to get my hands on one of those hand planers. problem ko kasi is sharpening the blade thats why i shy away from hand tools.

Re: jointer plane question

ahh.. sorry, hand planer pala. i got excited kasi kala ko its one of those planer thicknesser oe planer jointer things. il be getting a planner thicknesse set up maybe next week. got lucky na a friend of mine is selling his for 40k. US brand with a 7hp motor.

i would like to get my hands on one of those hand planers. problem ko kasi is sharpening the blade thats why i shy away from hand tools.

Ernie,
do look forward to replacing those thicknesser blades. what I mean is make sure they are still available or better yet available locally...

Re: jointer plane question

i would like to get my hands on one of those hand planers. problem ko kasi is sharpening the blade thats why i shy away from hand tools.

I use the Scary Sharp method, which involves just sandpaper and glass, popularized by a humorous posting by Steve LaMantia back in Usenet days. I find it easy to understand and remember how to do.
http://www.scrgeek.com/woodwork/humorScary.html

Anyone have opinion on differences (if any) among the locally available sandpaper brands? Especially on which lasts the longest? So far I have samples of Creston, Kyk, Norton, 3M Wetordry, and what I assume is fake 3M that seems to be in stores nowadays.

Re: jointer plane question

thanks timber. will try to pass by binondo next week

Re: jointer plane question

I used the Scary Sharp method too ... well sometimes. I think it is best to use the best kind of wet sandpaper because it is quite a chore to replace the sandpaper when necessary. I used 3M sandpaper. IIRC Ace hardware has the 2000 grit 3M sandpaper.

Re: jointer plane question

Scary Sharp method user here too. I use 3M sandpaper and for the fine grits Norton.

I have this to help me out a bit on the blade angle.

I finish up the sharpening by running the blades on the bench buffer for a mirror smooth finish.

Re: jointer plane question

I think it is best to use the best kind of wet sandpaper because it is quite a chore to replace the sandpaper when necessary.

As long as the sandpaper has been pressed/trained to be flat and not curling, I have never bothered to glue or even tape the sandpaper to the glass. So no need to 'replace' sandpaper, and only one piece of glass is needed, instead of several for the different grits.

It seems to work anyway. Am I missing something.