Re: LNCC63's workshop

with the picture kasi I didn't see it was for the rt use. hence I wondered how it makes dowels... 🙂

Re: LNCC63's workshop

Oh ok, sorry about that Timber. You are so much more industrious at documenting and showing others how to do things. Normally, I don't take pictures while I'm working, only during breaks and when my hands are clean.

The jig was attached to the based of my router with a bolt and an F-clamp. This way I could tap the thing to get the diameter I wanted. Wanting to get it over with as quickly as possible, I just clamped the router upside down in the woodworking vise.

The dowels are not perfect (0.5in) but close enough (0.45in) for epoxy.

Re: LNCC63's workshop

that actuall looks good lncc, I figured I can mount it or semi-fix it in my plate since it has several holes on it. a simple fine adjustment bolt should give me control for it... thanks for the idea...

Re: LNCC63's workshop

Thanks Timber. While trying to find the link I based this one on, I came across another one: http://www.woodworkersinstitute.com/page.asp?p=977# . This looks better. I may just try it just for the fun of it.

Re: LNCC63's workshop

I like that link Lou, very nice jigs... will build that jig instead... lol
thanks man...

Re: LNCC63's workshop

For those that work with mixing epoxy, a jeweler's scale is a must have. Got this one off eBay PH for P450:

I get these from 168 before, around the same price 400-450.

Re: LNCC63's workshop

I addition to the P450 I also paid P60 for the shipping. I guess P60 is what I'd spend for fare if I went out and bought one but the savings in time is the real advantage. I've an 8-5 job so my free time is very precious to me.

Re: LNCC63's workshop

The electronic scale sounds like a good value compared with price range of mechanical ones. The label is not so clear. Capacity 500 g? 50.0 g? Resolution 1 g? 0.1 g?

Is there an accuracy spec? Batteries included? Calibration required?

Have you tested the accuracy? Without a lab standard, only way I can think of is to check whether the weight of some thing is 1/N of the total weight of N identical instances of the thing.

Re: LNCC63's workshop

if it can be calibrated then it should be a great deal

We needed some calibration weight in our office. Got it at First Philippine Scale. Comes with certificate too

http://www.timbangan.ph/

Re: LNCC63's workshop

This is a MIC so I doubt if it can be calibrated. I might try and open my old one. I only really need +/- 5% so it should be good enough. Epoxy is usually measured by volume, so for small amounts I used to use syringes but it is just too messy. For commercial or laboratory use, I'd stick with high-end scales.

The full scale is 500 grams with a 0.1 gram resolution.

Was able to take the new sliding compound miter saw out of the box and give it a few whirls. I'm happy with it though I am disappointed that it only actually tilts one way.

Tools like these will, 90% of the time, have some kind of defect. So far I've found two. First, the horizontal angle adjustment does not click into place so well. This should be easy enough to adjust. The second is that the vertical angle locking knob is "loose thread". I may have to make a new knob to replace it.

Re: LNCC63's workshop

Found I needed more dowels than I could get from the stock I made so I decided to try that out jig.

Worked well enough:

A lot easier to make than the first one.

Re: LNCC63's workshop

Asteeeg! :rolleyes:

Re: LNCC63's workshop

Thanks bro but not really. The quality from these jigs as compared to what I got from my lathe is far. Even my wood lathe will do a lot better. But if you are just making dowels for joinery with epoxy like I am then these are certainly a quick way to get satisfactory dowels.

Was finally able to solve how to connect a workpiece to the drill. The idea is to use a hex bolt driver. I have pictures but I'll have to post them later. Basically you pare the end of the workpiece down so it just about will go in a hex nut driver bit. No need to have a precise fit. To the driver bit on snugly just hammer it onto the end of the wood. This method is much better because first it compresses the workpiece. The screw method I was originally using put the worpiece in tension so it would easily fail. The second reason is that the driver bit will allow you to center the drill and worpiece much better without stressing the connection. The only problem I had was I couldn't find my socket driver set! So I had to pare down the ends of my workpieces a bit to fit the 13 mm driver bit I had on hand, a 17mm would have been perfect.

For those can use 12mm dowels, the jig has a 19 mm diameter entry and requires workpieces that are 13.4 mm wide on each side. For other entry diameters the formula is S = SQRT( D ^ 2 / 2 ).

Re: LNCC63's workshop

For those can use 12mm dowels, the jig has a 19 mm diameter entry and requires workpieces that are 13.4 mm wide on each side. For other entry diameters the formula is S = SQRT( D ^ 2 / 2 ).

Or simply S = D/sqrt(2) = D/1.414 = 0.707D 🙂

Just to flesh out the computation... Big D, the input hole diameter, is discretionary (depending on what drill bits are available) but must be at least 1.414d, where small d is the output hole diameter.

So, for d = 0.5" (12.7 mm) output diameter,
1.414d = 0.707" (18 mm) is the minimum input diameter,
but one probably does not have such drill bit; the next available bit size is
D = 3/4" (19 mm)
which calls for a square size S of 13.4 mm, slightly larger than the minimum possible, which is d.

Re: LNCC63's workshop

For those can use 12mm dowels, the jig has a 19 mm diameter entry and requires workpieces that are 13.4 mm wide on each side. For other entry diameters the formula is S = SQRT( D ^ 2 / 2 ).

Or simply S = D/sqrt(2) = D/1.414 🙂

where D is ideally the smallest drill bit diameter available, that is greater than or equal to 1.414d.
(big D = input hole diameter; small d = output hole diameter)

So, for d = 0.5" (12.7 mm) output diameter,
1.414d = 0.707" (18 mm) is minimum input diameter
but one probably does not have such drill bit, so step up to
D = 3/4" (19 mm)