Re: Need a new TS blade

a long time ago pa ever since i got the 4100..yes the riving knife initially needed some pushing to align it to the center of the thin blade..

next week when i can i will try to lube and "reformat" the 4100.
😉

Re: Need a new TS blade

that is good to hear, been shying away from them since the manual has specific blade limits...

Re: Need a new TS blade

i might as well copy the acrylic dust hood made by timber or make a big acrylic dust shroud that i can lower down whenever i need it.i just needed some time to use the sketch up.

make one jay and i will just copy..hehe

The new SawStop dust shroud is also a good item to copy. I'm observing how the air flow is being directed through the video on their website. I guess that's a winner by efficiency.

http://www.sawstop.com/procabinet/procab_features.php

Re: Need a new TS blade

The new SawStop dust shroud is also a good item to copy. I'm observing how the air flow is being directed through the video on their website. I guess that's a winner by efficiency.

http://www.sawstop.com/procabinet/procab_features.php

the big difference with other saws would have to be under the top. the trunnion assemble is often open and that is where the dc looses its efficiency, sealing that area is the key to increased performance in dust collection. unfortunately, I haven't found a solution for the 4100. but I will find one and it will be posted.

Re: Need a new TS blade

1. thin kerf is a must for our universal motor powered 4100.
2. it will perform better having the thin kerf blades.
3. the bosch stock blade is still Ok when i demoted it to the shelf and upgraded the 4100 with a 24 teeth ripping diablo blade.
4.but...still plenty of sawdusts! hehe.

i might as well copy the acrylic dust hood made by timber or make a big acrylic dust shroud that i can lower down whenever i need it.i just needed some time to use the sketch up.

make one jay and i will just copy..hehe

@V

Thanks for posting.

I was wondering if a 24 teeth was better. How do you find the cuts of your blade. Are these cuts ready for gluing?

Why did you go for lesser teeth?

I'm really torn now between these blades and am lost which one to get. I reckon too that Contractor grade is more than good enough for me.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00008WQ2Z/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.amazon.com/Freud-LU83R010-10-Inch-Combination-PermaShield/dp/B00020JOAA/ref=sr_1_1?s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1289284852&sr=1-1

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225UH/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

I have not measured the width of the 4100 riving knife but it's good that Timber pointed it out. All the while I thought it was plug and play.

Any more inputs from all you guys will be highly appreciated. I know it's just a blade but these discussions makes it more enjoyable to acquire. 🙂

Thank you all so much.

Re: Need a new TS blade

I quote this from an Amazon Bosch 4100 reviewer.

"The saw was running fine for about a week when I ran into my third problem. As expected the blade supplied with the saw dulled out pretty quickly. I replaced with the Freud LU83R010 10-Inch 50-Tooth Thin Kerf Combination Blade that I bought just for the occasion. I tried a few crosscuts and the new blade cut like butter. I decided to rip a 24 inch piece of 3/4" plywood. To my horror the wood binded between the riving knife and the fence as it went past the back of the blade. I checked the alignment and tried again...same thing the wood binds as it goes pas the back of the blade. Tried my Irwin Marathon 80T blade and same thing. It turned out that the Freud LU83R010 and the Irwin 80T has a 0.092" kerf while the riving knife is 0.091" wide. Talked to Bosch customer service and they confirmed that is a problem. Their suggestion was to try a blade with the wider kerf. I tried the Bosch PRO1050COMB with a 0.128" kerf and a Bosch CB1040 with a 0.098" kerf and they work fine. So beware when using thin kerf blade with this new riving knife/guard system."

Freud website says LU83R010 has a .091 kerf. Does this mean it's ok to use?

Re: Need a new TS blade

the trick Jay is to have the riving knife aligned on the blade near or on the fence side, the other side will just push the wood outward. but as far as I have read the manual, you will tend to have a snag when the cut wood contacts the side that is on the wider side of the blade.

Re: Need a new TS blade

the trick Jay is to have the riving knife aligned on the blade near or on the fence side, the other side will just push the wood outward. but as far as I have read the manual, you will tend to have a snag when the cut wood contacts the side that is on the wider side of the blade.

The thin kerf blade is 0.91 and the riving knife is 0.91. Seems like there is no allowance. Blade and knife has to be perfectly aligned give and take whatever tolerance there is.

Is it worth it to go thin kerf?

Have you tried your Freud blade yet?

Re: Need a new TS blade

Have you tried your Freud blade yet?

nope... tried the dado set but not the 1050A

Re: Need a new TS blade

Timb the 1040x has 0.098 kerf. Looks like there will be no snag. The same with the Diablo 1050X @ 0.098.

Looks like this 1050X is the better choice for me.

Re: Need a new TS blade

the trick Jay is to have the riving knife aligned on the blade near or on the fence side, the other side will just push the wood outward...

Wouldn't bringing the knife closer to the fence cause more snag as the knife and fence would have more tendency to pinch the wood?

The thin kerf blade is 0.91 and the riving knife is 0.91. Seems like there is no allowance. Blade and knife has to be perfectly aligned give and take whatever tolerance there is.

It turned out that the Freud LU83R010 and the Irwin 80T has a 0.092" kerf while the riving knife is 0.091" wide

Tito Jay, If I have read your posts above, if the thin kerf blade (0.092") which is already thicker that the riving knife (0.091") is already causing trouble even with a small allowance. So I think, based on the post above, that the thinner kerf blade (0.091") that has no allowance would have more problems then.

Just take my comments as a grain of salt as there are mere observations and based from my imaginary TS :p

Hmmm... bumili na rin kaya ako para mas may conviction yung posts ko? All-time low pa naman yung 4100 TS at 1617EVS Router sa Am@z0n 😀

Re: Need a new TS blade

Go go go Jarod. Now is the best time to buy. Holiday season sales.

I'm going for 0.098 kerf to be sure.

Re: Need a new TS blade

the reason why i am using the 24 teeth diablo is because its the only stock the store had..and purchased 3 of them..one went away with the jet jts 10 now with kapauster ( a TPC member) and kept the two blades.

the 24 teeth blade rips faster....and since the blade is well made i didnt have problems when i ripped a 3/4" thick x 10 feet x 12" wide board before into 1" strips...clean cut all the time..but not glue line rip.

remember that i have the LS1013 makita SCMS, i am now crosscutting my boards here with it fitted with a 60 tooth dewalt blade...the capacity of which is 12" crosscut..

purposely now, I use my 4100 for ripping stocks only.

should i want to make tenons using the TS, i may have to get back the stock bosch blade for the purpose.

thanks for posting that review anyway. makes me more cautious from now on.

there is one solution to our problem...we can make the riving knife thinner anyway to match the thin kerf blades.

Re: Need a new TS blade

You mean modify the riving knife by sanding it?

What is the model of your Diablo blade? Is it by chance a 0.098 kerf wide blade?

I wonder if this Rip blade below will be good enough at 0.094" kerf.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0000225UH/ref=ord_cart_shr?ie=UTF8&m=ATVPDKIKX0DER

http://www.freudtools.com/p-36-thin-kerf-ripbr-nbsp.aspx

The worst thing I can imagine is that the riving knife has to be re adjusted when changing blades. If this is the case I'd stick to the stock bosch blade kerf or all other blades should have same kerf size.

Re: Need a new TS blade

Originally Posted by timber715
the trick Jay is to have the riving knife aligned on the blade near or on the fence side, the other side will just push the wood outward...

Wouldn't bringing the knife closer to the fence cause more snag as the knife and fence would have more tendency to pinch the wood?

precisely the opposite Jarod, you align the knife to the blade on that side, leaving the other side (farther from the fence) the one that isn't aligned...